Friday, April 3, 2009

The Wire

So I'm getting down to the wire here. I've less than 48 hours left in Australia, and I've obviously been keeping quite busy as I've been away from the computer. The last couple weeks have consisted of the tropics: Cairns, Whitsundays, and Fraser Island.

I flew into Cairns on March 19, departing Melbourne around 6 am. Exhausted, I collapsed on my hostel bed and caught up on sleep for about two hours before heading out to explore the city. Cairns really doesn't have much to offer other than a major Casino. However, what makes this such a touristy town is that it is a central location to departures for the Great Barrier Reef, Mission Beach for skydiving (really, that's all Mission Beach is known for), Daintree River to check out Crocs and see the transistion of mangroves to rainforest, Cape Tribulation for a nice rainforest experience (but stay out of the ocean if you wanna steer clear of Estuarine Crocs), and the Tully River for some good rafting. I wandered the streets of Cairns for a few hours on the 19th, in and out of tourist shops that were exact clones of each other, save the occasional fifty cent difference in price, and suddenly encountered a flood of protesters of some sort all dressed in yellow, all of them marching down the main drag. Not so much out of curiosity, but simply because I was turning the corner, I discovered they were protesting the importation of bananas from the Phillipines. Good on 'em for wanting to keep jobs of Aussies, but at the same time I couldn't help but notice that many of these protesters were definitely not Aussie born, and were probably much like the many Canadians I've met along the way who worked packaging bananas and other fruits. Perhaps I'm just a bitter American who couldn't get a working visa. At the same time, I notice Australia facing a lot of what America has already encountered, and hope that they choose to be a little more self-loyal rather than trying to save a buck and not getting the quality that you could if you just kept it domestic.

I rose early the next morning for my trip to GBR, and headed down to the fleet only to discover after about a thirty minute wait that my boat was not going out today. I asked if other boats were, and the reply was "yes" as I was pointed in the direction of a walk-on family owned boat, the Reef Experience. After a big brekkie on the boat and a handful of motion sickness tablets, we were off. The water was quite choppy, but I'm not gonna give up my trip for a bit of chop. After an entertaining orientation, I jumped in for the first of two snorkel session. Sans a buddy, I became a bit more adventurous and ventured away from the boat a bit more than I should, particularly as I was chasing a little white tip reef shark around in an attempt to capture its image....we shall have to wait and see. After getting my hand slapped for wandering too far, I went ahead and decided to SCUBA for the first time, unsure what my eustracian tubes would think of this decision. I quickly discovered that I was a nose breather as my mask leaked everytime I exhaled. Going into deeper waters with Justin the Dive Instructor and three other Aussies, we came across a variety of sea life, including some enourmous clams that Justin was trying to get me to help him pry open, and we also found Nemo! When the day was done, I had made some Aussie friends from NSW, three older guys from a variety of professions. Meeting up later on that night for a real seafood experience at a more-than-backpacker-price-range restaurant, they were kind enough to treat me to a meal....Brian will be pleased to know that I indulged in some fresh prawns (in other words, I haven't been eating Kosher (-;). Returning to my room, I encountered Yvonne, a spunky, good natured Brit with a slight Brummy accent. We were bedmates for the next couple of nights before she was off to Hong Kong. The following three days consisted of one day rafting the Tully River in mainly grade 4 and one 5 rapids, during which I really felt the resulting sunburn on my back and bum from snorkelling the day prior, doing walks through the Daintree forest and Cape Tribulation. While in Cape Trib, I notice a small scratch on my foot developing a bit of a red line along the vein. Aware of what this was, I went to the pharmicist only to discover he was on vacation and the doctor was an hour drive away. Hmmm. Resorting to the second best option, I went to the grocer, got some garlic to slap on the wound, and watched the line lessen during the following days until I came to a doctor in Townsville. See, Mom and Dad, there was a good reason I got blood poisoning ten years ago; otherwise I probably wouldn't have thought anything of it and ended up with gangrene and perhaps be less one foot by this point. Getting back on track, Cape Trib was a wonderful place, and with the rainforest right on the beach, it truly felt like a scene right out of LOST. I encountered some interesting critters along some walks, including some non-indiginous wild boars and some stoned Canadians (who, by the way, were useless when they offered to drive me to where I needed to go and I ended up a good 3K from where I wanted to be; this is why you don't smoke).

Upon my return to Cairns, I took the 12:30am bus to Townsville (where I pretty much did nothing but eat ice cream, which ultimately got me sick, and went to the doctors) where I stayed for a day rather than going to Magnetic Island as planned. The next morning I was off to Airlie Beach for my sailing adventure. We (a group of about twenty of us) departed on the Habibi the next morning, and this is when I began to learn that it's not always good to book things in advance. The sailing was fantastic, but the place was covered in bedbugs. It was during this trip that I began to grow weary of my flashpacker backpacker journey. I slept (for an hour) up above before the critters were discovered due to being sick from the smell of the engine room, but the next night, the others on board were so rude in trying to sleep where I specifically asked if I could sleep in an attempt to escape the bugs....I guess I was a bit spoiled early on in the trip being able to travel along and choose with whom to meet along the way. But it wasn't all that bad. We got a bit of snorkelling in, and enjoyed the beautiful sands of world-famous Whitehaven Beach. Of course, though, the first thing I did upon returning the the Marina was take a shower at the public showers, and wash everything I had taken on that boat. It was here in the Marina that I met Dale, an Aussie who was recently in Ft. Lauderdale to pick up his new yacht. It's meeting locals like him that makes me want to return to Australia and experience the country less like a tourist, and more like an Aussie as I've been given some great tips on the right boats to take, nice beaches to visit that aren't on the traveller's map, and where to stay.

From Airlie, I took the coach on down to Hervey Bay where I met the group with whom I'd spend three days on Fraser Island. After a bit of grocery shopping (my budgeting skills from shopping for work came in quite handy as we all got money back from what we contributed) and headed out to the Island on the ferry the next morning. Again, I was somewhat miffed about the whole backpacker package thing as I was told the car was automatic (lies, lies!), but I sucked it up and learned to drive (fine, I'd tried once before, but that was about six years ago)--get this--four-wheel drive manual on the sand using my left hand to shift. I'll be soooo confused if I try to drive a manual back home! Granted the German guys weren't keen on my driving, but I wasn't the one doing 100k/h on the beach in a 70 zone. :-P We stayed at a camp owned by Aboriginals, and originally, Nick, the guy who ran the place, wasn't too keen on us. However, he quickly took a liking to our group when he asked what my ethnic make-up was and it came out that I was very very little Cherokee....apparently, since it's believed that Aboriginals are the oldest race, they believe that natives to a land are a closer sub-race to them. After a bit, while the others were consumed by drinking games, he took me to his little house and showed me some spectacular Aboriginal dot art he'd been doing. The next morning, some of us rose quite early to watch the sun rise while others slept in, suffering quitely from their hangovers. Driving along the beach is quite tricky, and on multiple occasions, the paltry itinerary we were given nearly got us washed out to sea. But we had a phenomenal time, nonetheless. Lake Mackenzie, a pristine freshwater lake from which you can drink, was by far the highlight of Fraser. The island being a 126 km stretch of sand (and it also houses a rainforest), the lake had the appearance of the water you would find in the Bahamas, clear and green on the edges, and dropping off into a deep blue as the depth increased. Before departing, Nick said he had something for me to take back. One item was a piece of dot art he'd painted for me on a section of redwood, and the other....let's just say I'm keeping my fingers crossed and saying a prayer when I walk through customs. On the bright side, it shouldn't be cursed as I didn't take it, but rather was given it.

I got into Byron Bay yesterday, where I met up with Hannah, the self proclaimed New Age hippy I'd met on the surf trip in NZ. She took me to an art gallery out in the country before we headed to her boyfriend's to stay the night where, after a fantastic authentic Indian curry meal (he grew up in a monk monastary in Tibet, which let me tell you, made for quite the interesting stay), the two pulled out some canvas and paint to get to work on their current projects. Hannah said she needed to use me as a model, and I told her that I was willing so long as I could keep my clothes on as I knew she was very much into nudes....thankfully she just needed a face. I'm also thankful she's into abstracts as the thing looks nothing like me. I was ultimately coerced into painting after Jahna handed me a feather paintbrush he'd made....peer pressure. They were also very much into poetry, and after I commented that his poem was good and I liked it (I'd only read page one of six), I turned the page and discovered that I may have been a bit more comfortable on the set of The Girls Next Door than sitting there reading that poem and I quickly skipped to the last page to save myself from anymore suffering. After a lovely homemade brekky of free range eggs, avocados, pesto on toast, and homemade almond milk, and before Hannah and I departed for a bit of a surf in Byron this morning, he handed me a small sachet with a crystal shaped by Tibetin monks inside of it. A nice gesture, I'm still not sure I'll keep it as I'm a little weirded out by its presence. If my brother met this couple, he'd never even joke that I was a "hippy"again. So Hannah and I were off for a quick surf before she had to work, and I am pleased to say that in that big pool of mush, I somehow managed to stand for the first time on a board much shorter (6'8") than I'm accustomed to (8'4"). Sqeee! While I was going to do a bit of a walk until Hannah returned with my bags this afternoon, I decided to catch up on here instead. It's a sad thing, departing in only two days; the time has surely flown. Before I go, though, I am scheduled to arrive for my last full day in Sydney at 6am on Sunday, go on a day trip to the Blue Mountains to see the Three Sisters at 7am, and will likely spend my evening packing and doing wash like all the good little backpackers do before leaving. And I'll hope that I get to my plane just fine without having to remove that little keepsake from around my neck that hangs from a piece of wire.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Falling In Love

So while I was sitting in the doctor's office in Townsville, Qld, the doctor waiting to see if I had a bad reaction to this antibiotic prescribed for my little case of blood poisoning, induced by a very small puncture wound from a rock in the river, I figured it was time for me to catch you up on things as I have been ever so negligent in keeping this thing up-to-date.

I know the title of this post surely caught your eye, but you'll just have to read everything in order to find out what I mean.


I left you off telling you that I had just left Melbourne. Since Wilson's Prom was closed due to the fires, Stinger took us to Philip Island on our way to the Melbourne transition. As I already shared, I was only here for twelve hours. The Melbourne to Adelaide portion of the trip continued with Tilly, and primarily a new group of people save Xavier from France and the four Danish girls (dubbed The Great Danes by Stinger, a name which followed them up until my departure, but I'm sure all the way up to Darwin). On the first day of the tour, Tilly took us to get up close with a few lazing koalas, and also went on an amazing tree top walk through the rain forest canopies of Otway National Park. After dinner in Princetown (where you never lock your doors as there are only 11 locals--one of the guys in the male cabins locked the doors and there were no keys to open it), our home for the night, we all piled back into the bus to check out the Twelve Apostles (seven of which remain in tact) just in time for rain to start falling from the sky, creating a magnificent misting effect in front of the structures. Coming back here again the next morning (3/6/09) for a view in the daylight, we also stopped to see the Bay of Martyrs, Bay of Islands, and London Bridge. London Bridge now only has one arch as the first one has fallen (how ironic that London Bridge fell down), and there is quite an interesting storing behind it. The arch that bridged the mainland to the second arch of the structure crumbled and fell away, dividing the structure and the mainland from each other, and stranding two individuals on the now island rock. Immediately, news crews were on the scene in helicopters, taking pictures of the rock and the two stranded individuals. What made this situation particularly funny was that the two people standing on London Bridge had called in sick to work that day, and now their false absence was being flashed across the television. To further the situation, the couple happened to be married--to other people. And that is the story behind London Bridge falling. We then went on to the Grampians after a lot of driving, and did a very steep walk up to a spectacular lookout point to total approximately 1.5 hours of walking round-trip.

Most of us didn't feel the Grampians walk until the next morning when we awoke for a sunrise walk to the top of the Pinnacle during which a startled wallaby hopped past myself and a couple of others, only to land on a wet rock where it slid a bit before struggling to his over-sized feet and hopping off into the bush. We also stumbled upon some other Aussie wildlife: two completely intoxicated Aussies who had both fallen out with their wives the night prior, and thought it a good idea to get drunk and do a trek up the mountain to the Pinnacle. I am pretty sure we woke them as they were sleeping in a cavern-like area, one of them sporting a flashy tiara. From here, we continued our morning by stopping by Hollow Mountain, and taking a walk down to MacKenzie Falls as we all finally began to mentally wake up by this point. We continued on our way to Adelaide, stopping for an hour in Horsham (Victoria's--perhaps Australia's--cleanest town where a by-passer even stopped to pick up an item that had fallen off of a hanger on the sidewalk, and then continued on with her errands). Horsham also boasts home to the bakery that makes the best Vanilla Slice in all of Australia. Now I had never had this dessert that has a custard middle sandwiched between puff pastry and topped with some vanilla icing, but I had to give it a shot. I stood in line at the bakery, and was ever so pleased with this delicious Australian dessert, so much so that I stopped at another bakery and tried theirs. After only two slices of Vanilla Slice, I felt this a sufficient qualification for me to be able to say that the first bakery deserved its hard-earned title as the second bakery's custard middle was much to hard and lacked a creaminess factor, as well as being a little too eggy in flavor. Needless to say, I wasn't very hungry for the remainder of the day.

We arrived in Adelaide that afternoon, gaining an extra half-hour (seriously, either don't change the time, or give us a whole hour, but half?). Fortunately, this wasn't enough to fully confuse my body. Adelaide, where I stayed for two days before continuing on with the Adelaide to Alice Springs portion of the trip, was a great city. It had a spectacular weekend market where I bought a sun-dress that I call my waltzing Matilda dress, handmade and only $15. This weekend there were also tons of activities going on from a family fair to a music festival that I would have loved to have attended had it not been so expensive. Instead, however, Emily (a Brit), Maireke (from Germany), and myself along with another girl headed to Glenalg beach which was a 40 minute tram ride from the city to the coast. Unfortunately, there was no time to watch the sunset as we were leaving at 6 am the next day and, it being a National holiday (of which Australia has an endless number), the reception desk would be closed and we felt entitled to get our $20 deposits back, what with Cannon Street Backpackers (yes, this is a warning) being such a dodgy place. I just have to provide a quick sidenote of this place, which came in a close second to the Oceanic in Auckland: there were toenail clippings on the floor of our dorm, we were given only a topsheet and expected to sleep on a stained mattress (fortunately, I managed to swindle another sheet when I went to get a pillow, of which they had no supply when I first arrived), and the bathrooms always needed cleaning because people would sneak in other people who slept in their vehicles in the alley way during the night to use them. Now there was an upside to this place, which I found very odd: free apple pie every night, and a make-it-yourself pancake, toast, and fresh fruit brekkie the next morning. I suppose this compensated, although they probably could have used these funds on, oh, I don't know, sheets, pillow cases, and employees...

Come Monday morning, we had to be up around 5:30 to catch the next bus for our trip. That's the thing I've discovered about organized tours--you get up very very early. 6:00 am wasn't so bad, I was able to do 5:30, but when we got to this next portion, we were getting up between 4:15 and 5:30 every day. Our first day with Lawless, the new driver, we checked out some Aboriginal rock art at Yourambulla Caves and then did a longer walk in the afternoon, topped off with a BBQ dinner where I abandoned my food rules and tried for the first time some camel sausages (eh.), kangaroo (yum!), and emu burgers (they raise emu in Florida, right?!). I caught a lot of flack for the remainder of the trip for eating meat when I had specified vegetarian and fish, but how often do you get the chance to try kangaroo?

By 3/12/09, day 10 of the trip, we had made it to Coober Pedy, an opal mining town, where we went noodling (you search for remnants of opals that the miners dump since you must have a license to mine here). I think I got some pretty promising little tidbits that I'd love to have polished and made into something, opal being my birth stone and all. After this activity, we all went on our own way for a bit of free time. I was inside of a cafe, away from the entrance, when I noticed some howling winds and I assumed that the black cloud hanging outside had finally broken loose, but when I went to investigate I discovered that it was an enormous dust storm, then followed by a torrential downpour, then followed by a hale storm, and topped of with a beautiful rainbow, all in a ten minute period. The bush has some pretty incredible weather tendencies, but a local said that was the first time in over twenty years that he had seen hale in that town. I guess that compensated for not getting to see the summer snowfall in Jindabyne on day two of the tour (but let's admit, snow in summer would have been so much more fun!). We spent most of the next day on the road to Uluru, also known as Ayer's Rock, in Yulara.

Something that few people tend to realize about the outback is all the flies. I invested in a two dollar fly net which fully served its purpose as days nine through thirteen we were constantly fighting off the flies. Nothing that bit, just plain old annoying picnic flies that surrounded you as the temperature was so hot that it produced what felt like waves--like we were in a convection oven. You could literally feel the heat sucking the moisture from your skin when stepping off of the bus the last two days. Anyhow, after walking around Uluru (and fighting off the flies), we refueled our bodies with some biscuits and fruit cake (America needs to learn to have fruit cake like that during the holidays and people would actually eat it), and then had some cheap Aussie bubbly (didn't matter that it was cheap as it was gonna go to our heads after that walk anyway) as we watched the sun set against Uluru, and while I jumped back and forth from taking pictures of the rock to the sunset.

The next morning we were up bright and early to watch the sun rise before heading over to Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) for a 1.5 hour walk, finishing just in time to have a spare few minutes to take a dip in the pool at the bottom of camp before we had to be on the road again. By 3/14, day 13, we had made it to Alice Springs, but not before visiting Kings Canyon where we hiked through the Lost City and the Garden of Eden early for a 3-4 hour walk, finishing just as it began to get extremely hot. This final night, we all got together and had somewhat of a farewell dinner and some drinks (and maybe some of us drank the 3.5 Liters of goon, or cheap wine, that we hadn't drank the duration of the last seven days. I never again want to see another box of wine in my life.).

Apparently I had gotten a little out of it the night before, and in my attempt to set my alarm, I somehow re-set my watch, waking up for my bus to the airport at 5:50 rather than 7:30. My body was very ungrateful for this cruel disservice, and it made my plane ride to Perth somewhat of a brutal journey. But it was here in Perth that I fell in love, with none other than the city itself. As you may know, I deliberated for quite some time before deciding to go to Perth and I am ever so happy that I went. I only spent three days here, but in those three days I trekked the city by foot, visited the Swan Bells which are just across the street from the WA Supreme Court and chime regularly throughout the day, took the ferry across Swan River (just across the street from the Courts) to the zoo, and managed to investigate the rest of the city from the government buildings to the malls. I also went to Scarborough Beach to watch the first day of the Life Saving Competition (it was Masters and a Nippers Exposition), where I happened upon a fellow who was--hold on now--the husband to the friend of the husband from whose wife I bought my paddleboard and met through my Jr. Lifeguard coach. She also placed first in a couple of her events, despite how nervous she was. Good on her! I was very impressed to see women (and men) well into their sixties, and even seventies, still active and competing in surf life saving here.

I was sad to leave Perth (especially on a red eye) at midnight that evening, but I wanted to try and see what I could of Melbourne in one day. So after a flight of a little over two hours, we arrived in Melbourne at 5:35 am where I caught the bus to the Southern Cross Station, and watched the city wake up as I waited for my 6:30 tram to St. Kilda, a suburb of Melbourne where I had previously stayed. I arrived at the hostel at 7:10 after chatting it up with Francis, a fellow who belongs to an MLM business that was recently on Donald Trump's Celebrity Apprentice. He also tried to recruit me, but I've had my share of MLMs. ;-) Arriving at the hostel, I had a cup of tea with milk (strange habit I've acquired here, primarily from the influence of UK tourists and not so much Kiwis and Aussies) with a couple of biscuits while planning my day. I walked a few minutes to St. Kilda Beach, which reminded me a bit of Pompano (good for memories, but that's not the greatest compliment as far as water and sand quality are concerned), and eventually found myself out on the pier where fishermen seemed to be catching more starfish than anything else. From here, I headed over to the Botanical Gardens (something I love about NZ and Oz is that there are Botanical Gardens in nearly every decent sized city) where I meandered about for shy of an hour before heading back to the hostel to toss my belongings in my room.

Once acquainted with my roommates for the night (many had been there a couple weeks to a few months, and I wished I could have stayed much longer as it was like one big family), and then caught the tram back into Melbourne for a bit of wandering. Here, I stopped at a little conservative bookstore that was hidden on the third floor of an old office building and nosed around for a bit, stumbling upon books from American and Australian politics to medicine, health, and economics. I found a little booklet that I'm sure my dad will thoroughly enjoy. Next I was off by foot to walk by the Victoria Parliament before stopping in the park for a bite of lunch --a cup of yogurt and a bag of salt and vinegar crisps made with real MSG, and let's not forget the kiwi fruit. (It was this moment that I put two and two together and realized that it's called the kiwi fruit because much like a kiwi, it's round and fuzzy. And flightless. Yes, I'm a little slow about these obvious things.) After laying on my back and relaxing for a few minutes on the cool lawn, I got back on my feet and took a looksie at the Royal Exhibition Building, which has quite the history. I have neither the time nor the money to share that with you at the moment. Anyhow, I discovered that since I was carrying my student ID (woohoo for blurry pictures!), I got a decreased rate to go on a tour of the Building, and also got free admission into the Melbourne Museum, which, while it wasn't initially in my plans, I went ahead and took since it was (what's the magic word that backpackers love?) free.

I walked all the way back to Southern Cross rather than taking the free tram as it was a good way for me to take in all the sights along the way, and then hopped on it to return to St. Kilda just in time for a stop at the grocery store before heading off to the beach once again to watch the sun set. It was a fantastic view, and I reminisced a little as a life saver who reminded me a bit of Rob Finch was in the water with some life savers in training, learning them up on rescue techniques. Before departing, I meandered a bit more through St. Kilda to check out the little shops (nothing special from that in all the other cities), and then retired to bed early as I had to be up for my flight to Cairns by 4:30 am.

So far, I have to say that I love Perth and Melbourne the most, and would love to stay long term in either one of them. I must have somewhat decent taste as all the Aussies I've spoken to after this have said that Perth and Melbourne are probably the best cities Oz has to offer.

That's all for now, folks. I'm off to the Whitsundays and will fill you in on Cairns later. Tata.







Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Lunchtime Quickie

Just a quick blurb to update you on what I'm doing and where I am. I started my tour on Monday, bright and early at 7am. Staying five doors down from the hostel was a brilliant idea and I'm glad I did it. I quickly earned a new nickname, Cracky, from my tour guide for the first three days, as I commented on the Red Bull he was having for breakfast as being crack water....from there on out I became Cracky. He was without a doubt the most hilarious tour guide, not to mention it was the first time that I got to listen to an Aussie accent for an extended period. *Closes eyes and grins* We discovered that I was a couch potato during his driving game with the same name, and I won a bottle of wine for dinner, which quickly led to five butterscotch schnapps shots, a few beers, and we'll just leave the rest as being history. Unfortunately Wilsons Prom burnt down, so he had to create some alternative activities for us. We did a bit of wine tasting, went to the beach for a bit, and I then embraced some girlie drinks followed by a bottle of So Co (yes, Wes, it has been quite some time since I had So Co, but I polished it off quite nicely). We had to wake at 6am the next day and we were on our way for the final day with Stinger (his nickname). He took us to see a seal colony and to a marine education site, which was indeed quite educatioal since the original plan was foiled due to the existing conditions. We were only a small group of ten (we started out 12, but they dipped after Parliament House in Canberra). Canberra is not a very entertaining city, despite it being Australia's capitol, but I still enjoyed hearing about the history and politics. On a side note, it was an American who actually won a contest in his design plan for the city, and it has a very American feel to it compared to the rest of the country. The weather was not kind to us on this portion of the trip (the first three days), but it was still a quite an entertaining time.

I began the Melbourne (pronounced Melbin) to Adelaide leg of my tour yesterday, and really wish I'd been to stay in Melbourne for a few extra days. It is quite a nice place, and actually seemed more inviting in things to do than Sydney. *sigh* I'll just have to come back to this part of the world! We just completed the Great Ocean Road leg of this portion of my tour, and it was absolutely spectacular! Despite it being cloudy and rainy (we are at the end of summer and start of autumn now), they were absolutely fantastic sights to say the least. I have my ticket lined up for Perth, but might leave a bit early to meet up with a guy I met on my surf tour, Xavier (a Maori who lives Port Douglas and has a security company which has served major actors and stars to presidents). This means only three days in Perth and a day early for my Cairns tour, so we shall see if it works out. Anyhow, that is what I will be doing, not what I am doing. I have to say that I'm glad I kept a few warm things as it's kind of cold here. Last night we saw the Twelve Apostles (absolutely phenomenal, even in the rain--I think it made it better, actually) it it was quite windy and cold. Well, that's just a quick schpeal on what I've been doing. I must go now as I've only a few minutes before we depart for the Grampians.

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Out and About

I've got my jones on to jump on a board and hit the water after having gotten into the habit of doing it everyday. I already told you about my beginnings where I was stripped of all my bad habits acquired by using a paddleboard and never learning to really surf. Last Tuesday started off with a morning session and me spending some extra time on my own in the surf in the afternoon. We then ventured off to the east coast that afternoon--the Pacific side--and drove along the beach highway (the beach is considered an actual road, from what I understand) on the way to our destination. After getting there, I was quite glad that I had gone out an extra hour and a half that morning/afternoon. There were beautiful, clean breaks as far as the eye could see up the coastline. I'm not very good with the whole wave height thing--never have been--but any South Floridian would have been in heaven with these barrel-worthy waves. I surfed pretty much non-stop (about 2.5 or 3 hours) until my sad little arms turned to jelly. Wednesday's adventure had us both in and out of the water. Kane said that this was probably the flattest he's ever seen it around, so it was a challenge for him to find us surf, plus the tides weren't in our favor. So we started the morning off with a bit of a session in the water, and then headed out for some optional surfing and sand duning in addition to a bit of site-seeing. We topped off the day with a very nice BBQ and some apple blackberry cobbler that I volunteered to make, and then on to some gaming. Thursday rolled around, and Kane was able to successfully find a good spot to surf as, once again, we drove up the coast for some surf about an hour and a half away. Upon returning, some of us took a tour of the point where they usually have surf (it was a virtual lake now) and collected some mussels to go with the pippies (sp?) the others collected the night before. Can I tell you that this guy made some incredible mussels? Yep, that's right boys and girls, I've been not-so-Kosher.

It was a sad thing to have to leave, but on Friday Kane dropped us off in Auckland, where some went their own ways, but I remained in the company of two Americans (Steve and Adam) and an Aussie (Hannah) for the evening. We went out to a performance tha twas part of the Fringe Festival and was a comedic skit of rapping/speak song that really showed off the quirky humor of the Kiwi: Lightbulb Man. It was a great departure from what I saw when I arrived in Sydney on Saturday at the Sydney Opera House. I decided that I could handle a 35 minute walk in heels, and I could, but I suffered a bit. I have resolved that if you cannot walk over three K in a pair of shoes, they are not worth having. So I arrived just in time at 7:48 (this is why you always set your watch aheah, so you'll have extra time) to pick up my tickets for a Midsummer Night's Dream that was merged with the music of Mendelssohn. Unfortunately I had had nothing to eat since my 1pm meal on the flight (really much earlier in the day since there was a time change along the way), but a nice couple from the UK bough me a glass of merlot. This combined with the creeping jet lag resulted in some serious head nodding the second portion of the show, and I was quite apologetic to those sitting next to me for the last ten minutes through which I struggled.

I ventured out again for some more site seeing on Sunday after grabbing some McDonald's hotcakes (I've been craving them since Christchurch and it's been well over a decade since I last had them!) and came to the Queen Victoria Building. Any shopaholic would be in heaven in this place, and even though the shops weren't open yet at 9am on Sunday, it was still filled with people to eat and check out this stores and the building itself. I had to go home for a nap (sleepy mode was influenced by church), and then was off again to head back down to the harbor since my camera died the night prior. Starved, I resorted to a Krispy Kreme at about 4pm, and then stumbled upon a homemade ice cream parlor about 10 blocks down the way which I couldn't resist. This is what happens when you start the day with carbohydrate dense foods like pancakes.

So I hate to leave off here, but I must be on my way to catch my Sydney to Alice Springs tour in ten minutes. That's all for now!

Monday, February 23, 2009

Swell

It is Saturday morning and I am currently standing here in the Auckland airport to depart for Sydney. I am leaching off of the free internet here, so I will try to make it quick. Below is a post I started, but never finished, so I'll complete and post it here.

(2/24-27/09) After a trip to the Post Shop to ship some things home yesterday morning, I headed back to the hostel from hell to check out (after waiting in the lobby for 15 minutes for them to unchain the front entry) and went straight to the harbor for the pick-up for my surf trip. There were nine others awaiting the arrival of Kane, our surf instructor and entertainer for the next five days. We all tossed our things into the trailer that was connected to a big van and headed on our way to an unknown destination. Following a drive of approximately four hours, we stopped in a little town to do some quick shopping for items we might need for the week (fine, we stopped at Liquor King, their equivalent to ABC Liquors) and got some goods for the week. After having to make soooo many decisions, we were back on winding country roads, up and down mountains, and arrived at our destination nearing four in the afternoon.

Around 6:30 PM, we squirmed into our wetsuits and headed down to the shoreline for our first lesson. I decided to stick with the neophytes as I don't think simply jumping up on a 25 lb rescue board as a ripple pushes you along really qualifies as surfing. It turned out to be a good thing as I had multiple nasty habits, primarily caused by paddling. After a quick sand session and practicing standing, Kane let us "have a play" in the white water. The bach (basically a short term beach accomodation or house) was just right. Bunk beds in the rooms, a nice sized socializing area, pool table (something I'll never be able to do well), and most importantly, beach front with a killer view of the coast.

The next day we went out early in the morning, and I soon progressed to the unbroken waves. It's pretty amazing that I lifeguarded so long and still had no real grasp of surfing. In only five days I quickly acquired skills that I had not in over five years of guarding--although it did help to have a good teacher, too. With Kane's instruction, I quickly went from learning when just the right moment to catch the wave was, to riding it in straight, to riding along the break, and finally to learn a little carving. I was really impressed that he could watch us all, and then tell us to make the most minute change and it made the world of a difference. He knew just by watching me me from shore that I was afraid of nose diving and so kept myself about an extra inch back from where I should have been in order to catch it. He claimed that this was the worst week of surf he's ever seen, but we would never have known that as he took us to some of the more favorable spots on both the east (Pacific) and west (Tasman) coasts, ensuring that we got what we came to get. It was a spectacular five days of meeting some really wonderful people with some potential contacts in Oz. I am actually somewhat sad to leave, but Oz calls.

I wish I could write more, but I am pressed for time and there's a line of pretty annoyed people waiting for a computer. Some of the pics you see on the slideshow are of us on the beach, but I am waiting for the actual action shots. I'll catch up on here again soon!

Friday, February 20, 2009

Turning Point

I set out in search of the Kauri yesterday morning, and I told Sophia EXACTLY where I wanted to go. I even double-checked to make sure she knew what I wanted. So an hour into driving, I notice I'm going the wrong direction. Evidently, if two different locations have a street with the same name, Sophia thinks she can go ahead and choose whichever she fancies. So I turned her off, and headed back north to find the trees. Unfortunately, after about another hour or so of driving through winding mountain roads at speeds between 15mph and 28mph, I had to use the restroom, which was quite obviously non-existant out in the middle of the mountains. Quite used to it, I looked for the first place on the side of the road to pull over. I found a picnic area, but there were people eating there, so I continued onward until about a mile down the road I found a spot with a lot of brush. I slipped on my flip flops and, as I was heading down a little bank, got my foot tangled in a vine that was covered in thorns which ultimately found a new home in my toes and foot. Triage time. Bathroom or bleeding foot? I chose the former and then tended to the latter which had about ten thorns in it and was bleeding far more than I'd expected it to be.



I was getting annoyed with today's plans.



I decided that this was it and if I didn't get to the forest in a bit that I would turn back and head off to Auckland early. So I drove, and drove, and then started to get very tired. Of course I needed to heed the warnings that "Fatigue Kills", right? So I decided that if finding the Kauri (a local suggested I go to Coramandel rather than the northwest) was going to be more of a chore and make my day miserable, that it pretty much wasn't worth it. Don't get me wrong, I was all about seeing the Kauri, but I scrapped my initial itinerary in the beginning of the trip for such reasons as this. I was heading upwards towards a beach when it started to pour and I decided to turn back. On the way back, however, I stumbled upon a nice little waterfall walk. They don't seem to have as many trails and walks on the side of the road here as did the South Island, most likely because it's more populated here and there are other means for rest stops. So I pulled over and wandered down the trail. I'd quickly forgotten that some of the best parts of my travels weren't necessarily the ultimate destinations, but were all the little stops along the way that cut up the journey. Once I completed my walk, I got on the road and headed for Auckland.

So everything's going just fine as I'm driving along Highway 2 when, pink, another rock hits my windshield, this one leaving a nice 12 inch crack down the middle. This was certainly not an improvement to my day. So I just let God have it, and keep going. I arrived in Auckland, and immediately decided that I don't much fancy it here. Perhaps it was because when I got off the motorway and Sophia could not navigate me around roads that had been blocked off for a cycling race (damn cyclists--isn't it interesting how the little things that we enjoy so much can easily annoy us?), and I had to locate another motor park for my last night with the car. I finally arrive at a nice little camper park in an Auckland suburb and stay here the night. I got all my plans squared away by searching online and even tracked down a hostel near the post office so that I could ship back some of the bulkier items that I won't need for Australia's warmer climate, plus it's only about a mile walk to where I need to be to start my surf tour on Monday. Otherwise I'd have to take a cab to the airport where their only FedEx drop-off is which doesn't open until 8:30am, then get back in time for my 10:00 departure. This way I can get it all taken care of and not waste too much time or money. The Oceanic Hostel. Nice, right?

So I drove here first thing to see if they had a vacancy for tonight, and they did. But, you know, there's a reason to worry a tad bit when the reception desk has a grate screen around it. It can't be that bad, I think to myself. I mainly go up to the room to use the bathroom, which wasn't that bad. Then I see the room. "Well," I think to myself, "just go out into the city for a while and you won't have to deal with it." So I walk down to the harbor to find out where my tour departs tomorrow. You know you're in a sketchy part of town when you have a place called Show Girls two blocks away. I was staying in the Auckland ghetto, no doubt about it. Convenience carries a heavy price. So I continued to the harbor, because being near the water fixes everything. I was somewhat saddened when I got down to the harbor and saw loads of crap floating in it, especially with how environmentally conscious of a country it is. But I quickly decided that I could be disgruntled by the past few days, or I could not let it spoil how great it's all been with a few exceptions. So I walked over to the i-site and I booked an afternoon of sailing on the NZL41. Before the departure, however, I went to the hostel and took in a few items that I wouldn't mind being stolen, but needed to get out of the car before I returned it.

Once out on the sailboat, the water did solve everything and make it better. I even got to get on the grinders and do a bit of steering. Quite a nice experience, and I think I was the only chick who tried her hand at grinding. Upon returning, I hurried back to the hostel, unloaded some more stuff, filled the car with gas, and was off to get the car and Sophia back to the rental place. I soon spoke to the guy at the front desk and told him about the chip and the crack. Even though I opted for the partial pay option for additional insurance coverage, it turned out that the cost for repairs was low enough that I didn't have to pay anything. Boy, you have no idea how relieved I was! I took a cab back to the harbor from the car hire, and sat outside with my newest addiction, a Chai latte, trying to avoid what I knew I'd eventually have to face. Around 5:45pm, I wobbled down the street with my backpack that has a larger girth than do I, and thought of how to better this situation. I got up to my room, and just looked at it. Disgusting. Absolutely disgusting. And I didn't even pay any less for here than I paid at other hostels! (Side note: I think I just killed a flea on me as I sit here typing this.) Anyhow, I sat (actually I stood; I have yet to actually sit on anything in there) in my room and tried to decide what to keep and what to send home. After about an hour of this, I realized that I had not actually eaten anything except for the latte and some left over red pepper and avocado since this morning. I immediately decided that in such a situation, a girl needs to go out. But first I had to make a trip to the grocery store. What did I get, you ask? Paper towels and disinfectant spray. The plus about staying in a place like this is that you'll likely not have any other roomies because everybody in town except for you knows better. So I retrun to my room, spray the bed linens, the door knobs, the carpet, and the pillow. Then, I cover the bed with paper towels and encase the pillow with the plastic bag from the market and cover it with paper towels as well. Ahhh, there we go, nice clean bed linens! And now I know I have to face something else. I have been out all day, in the heat and sun, sweating and getting dirty, and I must shower. It's not that I want to shower, but it would simply be unacceptable for me to go out like this. (As I sit here, I am reminded of another detail of this accomodation: the pipes moan and groan in angst with every flush or rinse of the hands in the sink. It sounds like a terrible tuba player.) Anyhow, I take with me my toiletries, shower flip-flops, the disinfectant spray, and the remaining paper towels because I refuse to take my towel in there and chance dropping it.

By this point, you might be thinking that I'm a spoiled, prissy girl who can't handle roughing it. Oh no, I can rough it just fine. I can be out in nature. I can deal with outdoor bugs. I even applied the five second rule to a toothbrush that fell on the bathroom floor a few nights ago at the camper park. But I wouldn't apply the five second rule to a hairbrush that fell on the floor here. If you call the need for simple hygeine and sanitary conditions being prissy, then a priss I am. Channel seven news would be all over this! Anyhow, I ventured down to the showers and found a new level of disgust. I sprayed down the shower and everything else I had to touch in there. I started out with it full blast, but quickly discovered that the pipes were starting to groan again, and that the water was pooling at my feet. Knowing that these showers likely doubled as a toilet, I turned the water to a mere trickle to let it all drain. Afterwards, upon returning to my room, I disinfected my shower shoes. Yes, it was that bad. Anyhow, my friend had suggested the Skytower, and I decided that in order to feel better, I might have to put on some nice clean clothes and go to a nice clean place, and have some nice clean fun (no stopping at Show Girls for me). So I did this, and I balanced out my day of oatmeal, avocado, pepper, and latte, with another latte and some raspberry tarts while enjoying a spectacular view of Auckland. You could see the lights of buildings and cars and business twinkling for miles around, out as far as the eye could see. And, ah, over there where the police lights are flashing, that's where my hostel is.

Well, I must be up early in the morning. Not just to be places, but to get out of places. There is plus to this place: It's not Hotel California, and I'll be able to check out in the morning. But what to do about the growing number of bug bites on me.....

Raining On My Parade

I arrived in Wellington around 5:15pm on Thursday the 19th. It was a comfortable ride of about three hours, and the ferry service sure has it organized such that everybody who has a vehicle is at it and out of the ship by the time it reaches port. When I arrived, Sophia decided she was going to be difficult about thing and initially informed me that I had to drive over nine hours over the channel to the North Island. Honestly, I named her just so I could yell at her. Once I got on the road, I gave Jodie a call to see if she was around to meet up for the evening. Unfortunately she was on a 24 hour nursing shift, but James was home so she had me give him a call. I was in the city, terrified of the driving situation--one way streets, crazy lights, millions of roundabouts, confusing intersections--my nightmare come true. This being the case, I just followed Sophia's directions to a motor camp that I'd plugged into the system before I called Jodie and figured I'd ring up James on the way, but when I glanced at my phone ten minutes later, I noticed all of my bars had dwindled to nonexistence, so I had to turn around, and return to the city centre (pretty much what they call downtown everywhere here). Now about thirty minutes into being in Wellington, I got back into the city and finally got back my reception (curses at Vodafone!). I rang up James, and he told me that he was literally a two minutes drive from the port, and I told him that meant I would probably be there in twenty minutes. I plugged in the address into the GPS, and was pleasantly surprised to see the street I needed in the system. Unfortunately, when I make a number of wrong turns, stop at rest areas along the way, or take detours, Sophia becomes disgruntled with my inability to follow her exact directions and eventually tells me that I have arrived at my destination even when I know I'm miles away. This ended up being the case on my way to James and Jodie's place. I decided to swing into a gas station and ask a cab driver for some help. It's a bad thing when the cabbie isn't familiar with the street for which you're looking! He pulled out his map and compared it with a map that a patron had handed to me on the street. Upon doing so, we discovered that that particular road was not on the map. He showed me where I needed to be, but unfortunately he didn't show me where I was. I sort of figured it out, but ultimately asked a man while I was en route who showed me exactly the way to go (what with one-way streets and all). I FINALLY saw James about 40 minutes later. A self-fulfilled prophecy.

I met a few of his flatmates, and we hung out that night watching pretty much all American TV and noshing on some pizza. I intended on exploring Wellington in the morning (lots of museums and exhibits and the such), but it was pouring out so I decided to be on my way. On my way out, Jodie came home for a quick break, so we hung out for a few minutes and she told me about their soon to be adventure of cycling through Malaysia and working in the jungles of Borneo. I was on the road by about noon, and she was kind enough to give me directions to the easiest way to get onto the motorway. With rain coming down (nothing like it is in Florida though, but the primary risk is of rivers overflowing and flooding major roadways), I made my way north towards Lake Tuapo. I've had my car for about three weeks now, and I'm on my way, driving along at a decent pace but cautiously. During the time I've had the car, I've been on gravel roads, dirt roads, muddy roads, roads under construction that are being sealed with the awful chip seal that they have here (I'm sure it's an economic ploy to sell tires) and haven't had a single problem. What do you know, I'm going along and the road must have just been sealed with that awful chip seal and a series of oncoming cars and trucks fling multiple little rocks--pebbles, really--in my direction. This is not out of the ordinary as the woman at the rental place said not to worry about paint chippage on the front end of the car from this, but all of the rocks managed to hit the windshield. Of course, one of these manages to chip it. Bon of a sitch! I have two days left with the car, and I chip the windshield now. And what does my partial pay insurance policy say? That it covers everything BUT the windscreens and windows. The customer is fully responsible for these. Dammit! So, all that I can do is say a little prayer, and hope that my winshield that has been rained on and cleaned of bird excretions and dead bugs manages to get dirty again and cover up that one particular spot. Or hope that they just don't notice it when I return it to the shop.

I arrived in Lake Tuapo, and then decided to go on towards Rotarua since it was too late to do anything and I needed to be as far north as possible. During the drive, the surrounding land was covered with natural hot springs, with clouds of steam rushing upward into the sky all around. I saw a sign that said "Natural Springs Walk" and decided this might be an interesting thing to do on the way. I turned off the road. Sophia became annoyed with me. I headed up a dirt road turned to rock and mud from the recent rains. Even the surrounding rivers were nothing but a muddy brown color. I should have known, heading up the path, that I should probably have turned around when I saw the turnaround made by other visitors. The road up was bumpy and messy, and the car, I'm sure, was having an identity crisis of whether it should be a van or an SUV. I kept going, and there were no more turnarounds. I'd lost interest within about a minute of driving, but there was nowhere to go. This is what they do here. Some of these tourist attractions with hook you with a sign of interest, and then take you down an eternal unpaved road so that you cannot turn around once you've decided to not pursue the activity, but rather must continue on to the destination whereupon they assume you'll feel obligated to partake in the given activity. Well, seeing the time I had spent going up, I pulled a two-point (actually three) turn the first chance I got and continued on my way. Sophia continued to badger me as I decided to take the scenic route to Rotarua, so she took a little nap on sleep mode as I drove through the amazing scenery that had a cretacious feel to it with all of the surrounding pools in the country.

Arriving in Rotorua around 7:30 pm, I found this great little motor park that had a cafe AND thermal pools for just $14 for the night. Pools alone generally cost $10-$20 for a single visit, so this was quite a deal. I headed over to my campground, set up, and then decided to get dinner rather than make it. The simple chicken burger I ordered was excellent, with amazing presentation--they are an artsy country, so presentation seems to mean a lot to them, which is fine by me. I also tried a Red Lion which was a nice change from the Monteiths I'd been having. All the beers and ales I've tried have been pretty light, even those that aren't meant for summer. So after my meal, I decided to indulge in a Kiwi desert of pavlova, a sweet meringue cake served with fresh fruit and ice cream. Absolutely amazing, but so much that I couldn't finish the entire thing. This is definitely something I'm going to have to try making when I get back home. From here I decided to go to the pools before they closed, and met a few very friendly Kiwis and a couple from Colorado on their honeymoon who was motorcycling through the north island with them. I eventually went back to their cabin for a bit (another night of beer and pizza), and was given some suggestions for today. I have decided that with such little time remaining, I want to see the Kauri (or is it Cowry?--no idea) forest and then head to Auckland. Time (both in travels and on my clock here) is running out, so I'd best be on my way!

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

North Bound

First off, I cannot rave enough about the quality and price (well, considering the current exchange rate) of food. It is excellent--or at least the few places where I've dined.

After yesterday's post, I got on the road and headed to Abel Tasman. Sophia is clearly a Kiwi, because she decided to quit working for me about thirty minutes after I got back on the road. Fortunately the signs were well posted and I had no navigational problems. I slept in the parking lot of the National Park and awoke this morning to do a little bit of hiking. Initially I had planned to go via water taxi to a more remote portion of Abel Tasman, but out of convenience, time, and cost, I decided to just walk the first portion rather than take transportation to the more advertised areas. I walked 2.5 hours in forest, over trickling streams and little waterfalls, and alongside the ocean. On the way back, I stopped off at a little piece of heaven (Apple Tree Bay, I believe it was) where the sand is actually more of little pebbles, gravel really. It was nice to not have to deal with the sand factor. I swam in the aqua and extremely chilly waters (had to be in the sixties!) and then laid on the shore for about thirty or so minutes. I have been in NZ over two weeks now and am still pasty, so I did what people are warned against doing--I went sans sunscreen (which I've actually been doing all along, but haven't had the benefit of water to reflect the sun until today). Save for some on my face (Melaleuca sunscreen works great, btw. No allergic reactions and no blistering and burning where I use it), I let my skin soak up the sun. Fortunately this story does not end with me complaining about how crispy I am. It was just enough to get a good base going on in preparation for more rays next week. :-)

I finished up around 3 PM, and then drove a bit until I came across an i-site (basically it's a national travel agency that will arrange as much as they possibly can for you). I booked my ferry out of Picton to Wellington for tomorrow afternoon, and then headed off to Picton from where I am writing. I'm finally getting a weeks worth of laundry done and am so pleased! One of the things you grow to miss about home are free laundry (and not having to do it in a bathroom sink for it to be free) and hair dryers. I never used the hair dryer often at home, but when it gets in the forties or fifties at night, it comes in quite handy. That's all for now!

Monday, February 16, 2009

Playing Catch-Up

I'm sitting in a Cafe in some small town right now, waiting to be served my meal, and then will be off again, but thought I'd try to catch you up in the mean time. It will likely not be in chronological order, but I'll do my best to work backwards from today to when I last posted.

So as I already told you, I'm sitting in a Cafe and just finished an hour plus jetboating tour. I learned a little history on jetboating, such as it was invented by an NZ farmer, and is the design behind waverunners and other such marine vessels that use water as a means of propulsion. I actually stumbled upon the jetboating tour on my way over to Punakaiki back on the West Coast, as I've zig-zagged my way around the South Island. When I saw the sign yesterday, I decided that if I was low on time, I would forgo the kayaking in Punakaiki and go with the jetboat ride on the way back....when I was passing through Queenstown on the return from Milford Sound, it was about 7pm, and I was not up to taking another day off just to jetboat. So anyhow, after some snooping around this morning and spending a little time on the beach and on a brief trail in Punakaiki, I got back on the road and came across the jetboating company where I had to wait about an hour and a half for the next ride, but I thought it was well worth it :-) The boat is capable of going up to 100kph in as little as 10cm of water, and if my conversions are correct, that's about 62mph in about 4 inches of water. Wow!

Last night I found myself sitting in a little tavern in Punakaiki for my first purchased meal since the fish n chips that I had after my Banks Peninsula tramp. I could smell the food as I walked back from a little exploring of the pancake rocks (after which Punakaiki is named) and decided that I would not be cooking for myself if the tavern was still open. I arrived ten minutes before ordering ended, and after trying the one in Akaroa, asked the bartender if he had a light summer ale and he presented to me a light ale made with ginger and honey that bore a pleasing resemblance to ginger-ale. As I sipped my ale and waited for my Puni fish burger (it was delicious and humongous!), I tried to figure out the game of rugby just by watching. I'm still in the dark.

When I last wrote, I had just finished kayaking Milford Sound. On my way out, I picked up a Brit whose motorcycle's tire went flat and drove him back to the lodge, and then to his bike. Since Judith the German, I will only pick up temporary strays--no overnights! I then began my mad dash back to the East Coast as the nephew of a friend wanted me to try to be in Nelson--a 16 hour drive--by the next evening. Not sure what to do, and without any cellular reception, I initially made my way Queenstown, which I immediately left upon arrival because I figured I'd have to spend an entire extra day there just to do the boat ride. I twas nearing 9pm, so I fueled up, and headed back to Oamaru again to stay the night on the beach. On the drive over, the clouds cleared the sky like a curtain being pulled back, and introduced bit by bit the many stars as they took the stage against a navy sky. I kept driving and driving, dividing my attention between the winding road and the stars. Upon turning a corner and coming down a mountain road, a yellow 3/4 moon shone, reflecting on the lake beside the road. If you haven't realized it by now, I have an obsession with the moon, sun, and stars. Anybody who knows me really well knows just how seriously I can take it. So I stopped on the side of the road, and made my best attempt to capture the moment. Not much justice was done, but that's pretty much always the case when you take a picture. After hours of driving, I pulled into my spot for the night at about 12:45 am: a cliff overlooking the beach below.

Then next morning, Saturday, I awoke around 9am. The notion of losing a few pounds as a result of decreased funds for food--don't think it's working. After a nice little breakfast whipped up with my handy gas stove, I sped off to CHC since that was the only known location that my phone worked. Taking the "scenic route", a three hour drive took about five, while passing through mountains on one side and farmland, plains, and ocean on the other, I also passed through a herd of sheep in the middle of the road (I got not free dinner out of this bit), and drove alongside some serious cyclist for about 15 miles who were in a race along a country road. I revisited the Botanic Gardens as I sipped a Chai latte and checked my voicemail. After finding out that the mother of the guy in Nelson had a bed made up for me, I felt kind of obligated to go, so I headed up that way and made it to Pelorus (I think that was the name) National Park just outside of Blenheim, a city that was the closest thing to Boca Raton that I have seen since I got here. I rolled in around 10:30pm, after requesting that God find me a spot as I didn't feel right spending the night alongside the road practically in somebody's vineyard as I was in "wine country". The park was a nice little gem, and I started the next day with a refreshing shower, a double scoop of ice cream (one scoop rum raisin, one scoop butterscotch), and a 30 minute trail walk. I then made my way to Nelson, where I discovered that my phone worked, but only in about a square mile vicinity.

After a bit of trying, I finally got in contact with the people at whose home I'd be staying, and we spent the afternoon at the beach as that was a "touristy thing" to do, so said by my host--I thought we were going to see Nelson Lake. Oh well. Unfortunately, this little side trip seemed to be probably one of the regrettable moments of the trip so far. The ran a bit of a side business as a home stay for travelers, and it seemed just a bit impersonal--I haven't learned yet to please myself rather than others, and not feel bad for doing this. This trend followed me through the afternoon when I went to Nelson Lake rather than Abel Tasman as planned, with some of the housemates who weren't what I deemed prime company once we were on our way. But this was all remedied when I arrived a few hours later in Punakaiki and was greeted by some absolutely amazing scenery! The beach makes everything better! I spent the evening checking out the pancake rocks, and what would have been the blowhole had it been high tide. What spectacular views!

Now I'm en route to Abel Tasman for either a walk or kayak tomorrow, and then off to catch the ferry to the North Island where I'll explore for a few more days until I do my surf trip. Food's here, so that's all for now!

Thursday, February 12, 2009

Sleeping Around

Please, get your minds out of the gutter! After staying in Oamaru for the night, I was successful in my search for penguins (and seals!) then next day. I ended up driving through Dunedin, not stopping for a combination of fear and disinterest of big cities despite my GPS (whom I named Sophia), and headed south. I have resloved to not worry about finding places to stay along the way, and simply stop in where I please. As I entered into Papatowi (sp again), "Where the river meets the ocean", I decided that this was where I definitely wanted to stay the night. Unfortunately, the first two spots were not for camping, and the second one, a breathtaking view of the ocean below, seemed a little too conspicuous. I proceeded down and came upon a turn-off to a beach. After discovering other campers here (and truly upsetting Sophia for being off course to the point of her finally giving up on telling me that my "vehicle was going the wrong way" and just telling me that I had reached my destination), I parked my little orange van and made my way to the beach.

What did I find? Absolute paradise! I could have lived happily in a 400 square foot shack for the rest of my life. It was vast, beautiful beach with a little stream of freshwater trickling into the ocean from a source that I eventually investigated. I tested out my ankle and knees with a brief run on the solid shoreline--something only I would do to see if they were better--and found that it didn't aggravate my knees (so evidently I should simply run all the time rather than walk). Anyhow, I stayed here the night, but some chilly morning rains deterred me from my initial plans of going for a swim in the crashing surf first thing in the morning. Instead, I made breakfast and headed off again but didn't get very far. Just a few minutes down the road, I came to an inviting sign for the Cathedral Caves listing the tide times and track availibility. Seeing that I wouldn't necessarily get the opportunity to explore it again, I pulled over and hopped out. NZ$5 got me on the track, and it was about a 20 minute stroll down a declining forest path to the beach where I was directed to the caves 300 meters down the beach. Entering the first cave, it is clear why they are called the Cathedral Caves as it was very tall and wide with vaulted "ceilings". Absolutely magnificent! I wandered through it, and moved on to the next one which was extremely narrow and let in such little light that I used my camera just to find my way around. It was a little too reminiscent of Tom Sawyer and Becky in the cave, so I went against my natural inclinations to continue, and turned before I regretted my curiosity. I continued on, cave after cave for about six or seven caves.
After about an hour of exploring, I turned back to set off again. Walking along the shoreline in my Columbia pants and orange fleece vest, I notice a group of four bundled individuals looking my direction who then shouted "Lisa!" and came running in my direction, greeting me with a friendly hug that nearly toppled me over. It was the two James's (Catherine's gonna hate my grammar here, I know it!), Jodie, and Kate, the three Kiwis and the Brit, respectively, from the camp ground and Puzzling Place. After catching up and discovering that they were only a few minutes down the road the night before, I headed back off, but first stopped at Curio Bay to view the dolphins and seals (actually, one territorial seal who held up traffic) at the suggestion of my new mates. The Catlins were an absolutely spectacular drive, filled with little walks and plenty of scenery. From here, I headed into Invercargill where I signed up for my kayaking tour in Milford Sounds, which Sophia told me was a 10 hour drive but turned out to be only about five or so, thank God! I truly upset her as I took multiple detours on the way, and her little map often showed me driving off the road, but alongside it as she prompted me to "turn around" as my vehicle was "going the wrong direction".
Once at Milford Lodge, I checked to see if there were any spaces available, but they were absoltuely booked, so I headed back down the winding road when I was approached by a girl who needed a ride. A German hitch hiker who had waaay more luggage than I, including an admitted 5 kg of books and her guitar, had found herself stranded as she wanted to go to the glaciers, but her ride was going to the lodge. I told her that I could give her a short ride, but I was camping in Milford so that I could kayak in the morning. Once she got in the car it began to rain, so I felt obligated to offer her to spend the night in the back of the car. I try to be nice, people, I really do. But can I tell you how annoyed I was that she was already acquainted with my type of vehicle, knew that there was a gas stove (inconveniently buried) and wanted her hot soup and tea? And when I was ready to go to sleep at 10 pm since I had to be up the mountain, a 45 minute drive, by 7:45 the next morning, she said she couldn't fall asleep without reading first. And let's not leave out that she was insistent on not killing the moths and flies that were attracted to the light because they didn't know any better. Above all was her snoring that kept me up most the night--probably why you are getting a taste of grumpy Lisa right now. I have decided to be more discerning with strays, or not take them at all. However, what made all that better was the absolutely amazing kayaking tour that I took through the sounds this morning! Totally worth the fuss, and boasting some awesome scenery. Of course I get to the best part of the last 24 hours and my clock has but a minute left after contributing $7! Well, I'm off to who knows where, except that it's north somewhere. Til next time!

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Penguins!

I departed Wanaka yesterday afternoon, and was on the road a good 40 minutes when I realized that I needed to fill my gas tank. With filling stations being as unpredictable as they are in many parts, I turned around, headed back to town, and fueled up my orange little van. On my way out, I realized how late it would be before I got to Te Aunua (sp?), and decided to head back to the east coast to explore the penguins. I went in search of the yellow eyed ones last night, but could not find any. However, there is a reserve for blue penguins (they are under a foot tall), and I went there for a 9 pm showing. No cameras were allowed as they are sensitive to the light, but sodium lighting was used (like sea turtles, they can't see certain light spectrums) for our viewing pleasure. They were so entertaining to watch as they approached their little nests, some youngsters waiting eagerly for mom or dad to bring back some food (the parents share the task of warming eggs and feeding until they are mature enough to fend for themselves). There was a seal on the rocks, and whenever it moved, many of the penguins would retreat.

TodayI'm off to see what other species of penguins I can find, and will try to get some pictures (although it's difficult for me to upload them while I'm away. My time is up, so I must go. Bye!

Monday, February 9, 2009

Always In Motion

Having been in NZ for over a week now, there is something that I've noticed and learned about this country that I did not previously realize. I had no idea this was such an outdoor oriented country. It seems like everybody is outside doing one thing or another. Regardless of age, shape, or size, they are all about anything that incorporates adventure into athleticism. I see fifty-something women getting into some serious mountain biking, teenagers skydiving, guys in their twenties making a weekend of cycling 150K to and from a campsite. Even in the most remote areas, I regularly see people running laps around their farm property or in full triathlete gear running besides the highway. Maybe it's the fact that NZ is an adventure capital to many--a detail of which I was unaware before I arrived. Bungee jumping originated in Queenstown, jetboats were created here, and pastimes of residents are often the more extreme sports, from paragliding and windsurfing to snow boarding and endurance runs. Even in a sleepy dot on the map town whose main street was only three blocks, the first sign I noticed when rolling through was one pointing to the skate park.

Coming from a background in nutrition, this drew my attention to a detail that is often neglected in the states. Activity for the experience and not just (or even) the physical or physiological benefits. Men with lovehandles and women with extra padding are capable of keeping a very good running pace. They could care less about how they look in their exercise gear, although their are outdoor apparel stores everywhere. People take their kayaks out to the lake or beach before work, and go for a run and a swim in the early evening. Or their work involves such activities. I was camping with a Kiwi the other night who works at a summer camp in MA during the summers, and his campers refused to believe that it was acceptable to teach kayaking as a profession--they wanted to know what his real job was. It makes sense to build jobs around the present landscape rather than to landscape to create jobs, especially in a country of such diverse scenery.

Well, I'm going to go ice my ankle now. I twisted it jumping off rocks into the river just after I completed a river surfing session. ;-)

Saturday, February 7, 2009

On The Road Again

So I'm sitting here on the beach in Greymouth as I write this (not type--I decided to type after writing since I have to pay a dollar per 10 minutes for computer use). It was quite grey yesterday when I arrived and I couldn't help but wonder if this minor detail was pertinent to the name of the city or was mere coincidence. Well it has cleared up nicely this morning, and I am contemplating putting off my departure for the glaciers by about an hour so I can spend some quality time roaming the beach (it has a smooth rock and dark sand section with lots of driftwood on both). The waves seemed to break nicely here yesterday, but there's a decent groundswell here this morning from the weather that came through last night.

Anyhow, my apologies for being away and not contributing for the last few days. No travelling mate ase of yet, and I am not too sure that I'd want one at this point--at least not for full duration of the remainder of my stay. I have met plenty of nice people along the way, however. I'm at my half-way point for the visit to the South Island (crazy, right?!), and I made some major revisions to my itinerary. I have none. Okay, well, I still have the same list of places and things to do, but I'm not doing them in that order. What provoked this sudden (impulsive?) behavior was me driving back from Akaroa (my knees have still not recovered, and this also contributed to the revision) and had intended on going to see the Sign of the Kiwi outside of Christchurch (CHC). So I have my map, and my intended address, and the route all highlighted, and I'm following the road signs when it happens--a roundabout! I frantically search the exit options for the location I need, but it's nowhere to be found; only the immediate cities or places in between my current position and the desired destination. I glance at the map, hesitating to enter the roundabout from Hell. "Well, that vicinity is close to where I want to be, so that could be it. But the first exit is also on the way. Crap!" Take this scenario and repeat it about half a dozen times. I ultimately did stop for directions, but that honestly was no help. So here I am, driving around in the car, on the verge or a panic attack. Having a panic attack is going to accomplish nothing, as I've figured out over the years, and is definitely not a recurring experience that I want to have on my trip. So I manage to navigate my way back to CHC just fine, I drive tot he car rental service, and tell the woman (the same woman who told me that GPS would be a waste of money that would be better used towards beer and biscuits, neither of which she seemed to be missing) that I wanted the GPS. Once I got it and figured out how to use it, a weight was lifted off my shoulders! No hesitation! Freedom! All of this took place on Wednesday. So I headed back to the hostel that I'd stayed the first night in CHC, did some grocery shopping (my comfort activity--really, it totally settles my nereves), and decided to play catch-up the next day.

I woke up bright and early on Thursday and visited the Botanic Gardens, Canterbury Museum, and the Cathedral. I also swung by Vodafone (their primary cell phone provider) and got a new SIM card which has rendered itself useless since there's only reception in the big cities in NZ. Thus far, that is CHC. (So glad I didn't get the iPhone before I left.) Buying SIM cards here can be like a drug deal should you wander into any convenience store that advertises them. They're taped to a piece of paper with an accompanying phone number and the clerk will only take sach. Credit? Sorry, no deal. Anyhow, it looks like my uncle might get a SIM card from me should I not get any takers on it before my departure. After all this, I drove to Willowsprings Reserve, or something to that effect, to see the Ko Tane experience, which is an encounter with the traditional Maori culture. Think Mai Kai less the drinks and dinner and replaced with an animal reserve for my Florida readers. I then departed CHC for Kaikoura to stay the night.

Something I have noticed about NZ is that they are very laconic with their road signs. I'm driving on the motorway (interstate) to Kaikoura at about 7:30 PM or so (projected arrival of 10 PM) and I start seeing road signs. Not billboards, but actual roadsigns with various messages like the ones you see on the turnpike. A steaming cup of coffe that said "Driver Reviver" and pointed towards some restaurants. The next gave me a laugh with dashes that were separated and eventually came together that instructed "Merge like a zipper". But I laughed hardest when I saw "Tired Drivers Die" with a car rolling off the road and "ZZZZZ" coming from it. I have seen others since, such as "Fatigue kills. Don't drive tired." and "Drive sober. Don't become extinct." Some strong (and often entertaining) messages.

I arrived in Kaikour just before 10 PM. The thing about NZ is that everything but the bars close between 5 and 8 PM, and unfortunately this included the camper park where I intended to stay the night. Driving along the coast, I noticed some pretty amazing spots overlooking the ocean, and keeping in mind that "Tired drivers die" as my eyes began to grow weary, I turned back and drove 15 K to a spot across from a motel and a few hundred yards from another parked van. In the morning, I dorve to Seal Bach to see the seals sun themeselves on the rocks, but I think I got there a little early as there were none on the rocks and just one was flying solo in the water. Little guy knows how to do it right ;-). I skipped Waipara as wine tasting wasn't a priority and I'm not sure how I'd react with allergies and all. With the intentions of heading straight for Greymouth on Friday, I started west but decided to stop in Hamner Springs, a quaint little mountain town full of shopping andn activities, but boasting natural hot sulfer springs. After a little shopping (can you believe that I went leisure shopping?) I spent about 2 hours in the pools in hopes they would ease my aching knees. I met a handful of nice people here, some Americans, others natives.

Saturday morning, I left the Springs and headed towards Greymouth finally. I stopped at Lewis Pass (a 5-7 day hike) and walked the trail a bit until my knees couldn't handle anymore, which was about 45 minutes one way, but still got some excellent scenery. I continued on to Reefton where I stopped for some Rum Raisin ice cream (sooooo good!) and got into Greymouth around 4 PM yesterday. Today I head south and will hopefull be able to check out the glaciers. Time is running out on my clock, so that's all for now!

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

Star Struck...No, Not That Kind

I knew I was a bit loopy in my last post....I left out, quite possibly, one of the absolute best parts of the tramp. During the second night, we stayed in Stony Bay which had a quaint little country store (fresh eggs, produce, meat, cereals, and an honesty box). The entire store was no larger than the size of a gas station bathroom, and I was a little too obsessed with it. They even had an old fashioned scale to weigh your purchases. Anyway, these huts didn't have electricity as did those from the night before. As it got dark I headed down to the beach with another girl in hopes of seeing penguins. We only saw a couple seals on the beach, but we did hear some penguins under a neighboring hut. Anyhow, as there was no means of lighting other than fire, we all went to bed by about ten. Around twelve, I woke up (very annoyed) by my bunkmates snoring and talking in her sleep, and since it was so dark, couldn't find my ear plugs. I also suddenly realized that I had to go to the bathroom. The loo is about 50 yards from the hut, but you must go outside. I laid there for a few minutes, deliberating if it was worth it, when I decided I had no choice. Once I managed my way down from the bunk without killing myself and waking everybody else, I stepped outside into the chilly air. I looked in front of me, and then up. I can't say I've ever been so in awe in my life, at least not that I can recall. I was actually a little startled when I saw them....Stars! Bright, brilliant, gleaming stars against a pure black sky. No moon in sight, just hundreds and hundreds of stars. Even when I've gone camping, I've never seen such a clear sky. They shone brighter than those displays you see at a science musueam. So I just stood there, still awestruck for a good few minutes, and have now decided that I just might need to find a guide to the constellations for the Southern Hemisphere.

Saturday, January 31, 2009

The Beginnings

First off, please ignore any typos as some Kiwis bought me a beer as my first beverage after my tramp. A very nice group, I was given two invitations to stay with them in both Wellington and the Blue Mountains, and their wives were quite motherly about my travelling alone and all.

So, shall I brief you all on the last few days? Here goes....



Aside from the minor flight delays along the way, it took over an hour and a half to get through customs. I seriously thought I was going to get denied access. We stood in a line for about fifty minutes to get our passports checked and declare anything we may have brought into the country with us. After this point, I was sent to pick up my backpack from the luggage carousel (I'm surprised it didn't explode with all it contains), and was then directed to to yet another check point. Here, I had to specify exactly what items on the list that I had in my possession (they scare you by saying that you'll get a $200 minimum fine if you don't declare something and are found out--but it's working for them, it looks like). Here I declared some energy bars (concerns were the egg and butter they contained), dried fruit, and my hiking boots. I was next, sent off to another check station where my boots were closely examined, and the woman there rummaged through some other things to ensure I had nothing that wasn't declared. Finally, I headed over to an X-Ray machine and pushed my luggage through. It was here that I met Ellie, a girl about my age, who came from Pasedina to do a 12 day cycling tour of the South Island. By this time, I had pretty much lost my car reservation for the day, and was told to return today. This foiled my plans in two ways: (1) no car, lots of luggage--crap! (2) no car, no camping park, now I have to find a hostel.



Ellie was quite a God-send as we intially planned to share a cab, but then hopped on the bus to head to Downtown. From here, we both hopped off, and I checked out a couple of hostels, both of which were full. My third attempt proved successful, and I think that with this being the first hostel where I've stayed, others may have a difficult time living up to my expectations--especially Aussie hostels. Anyhow, I headed out for dinner with Ellie after walking about two miles through town that afternoon, and had some fried Brie with some other finger appeteizers, which proved to be more than sufficient for dinner. Later on, we strolled on over to Victoria Square and caught a show that was part of the Buskers Festival (a week long gathering of entertainers from stand-up comics, to jugglers and acrobats). Upon returning to my room, a woman, Rebecca, who lives outside of Christchurch, told me abuot her travels abroad and was kind enuogh to offer up a ride to pick up my car. What sucks the most about this night is that I accidentally deleted ALL of the awesome photos that I got, from the food, to the walk in the park, to the show. Dangit!

The hostel I stayed at (Charlie B's for anybody who might visit CHC) was wonderful! I was really impressed. Anyhow, the next morning, I went off, got my car, and headed out to Akaroa for my tramp. The first night we stayed in a very nice "hut". It had a kitchen with dishes, knives, etc. , bathroom, and was just very accomodating, along with the other huts on the track....made me wish I'd taken the 4 day option rather than the 2 day. The tramp was amazing, and the various geographical ecosystems encountered along the way were all very impressive. The track, which is the first of multiple privately owned tracks, run by landowners who let hikers utilize their property for the hike, was a total of 35K, roughly 21 miles and had two ascents of 699 m and 600 m on the first and last portions, respectively. Anyhow, I have to say that I was NOT at all prepared for that tramp. It was not going up hill that bothered me so much (although it was very exhausting), but it was going downhill for which my sad little knees were not prepared. I was ready to lay on the ground and just roll the last 3 K down, when I resolved that I would simply walk it backwards. Yes, I imagine I was quite the silly sight, and even the sheep were staring blankly at me. But it was worth it. At the end of the track, I met a man who was parking his car to start the tramp. Originally from CA, but married to a Kiwi himself, he and his hiking companions bought me a beer (which resulted in me thinking I lost my keys--they were in my pocket), and they all gave me some suggestions, so now I DO have to revise my itinerary. I'm just grateful that I didn't lose my keys, especially after I lost my night guard somewhere along the track. I love you, Brian.

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

*Tentative* Itinerary

So a lot of you have been asking my itinerary so that you can track my travels and get an idea of what I'll be doing. If you know me, then you know that during my day and a half time's worth of flying that I'll be changing my entire itinerary for the dozenth time. Nonetheless, in a futile attempt to appease everybody, here is what *today's* plans are:

1/31/09
Arrive in Christchurch and pick up car (~4pm)
Walk around Lincoln (I am totally copying Mr. Cribb's itinerary)

2/1&2
Banks Peninsula Hike in Akaroa

2/3
Visit Pigeon Bay, Birdlings Flat, Lyttleon Harbour on return to Christchurch
Botanical Gardens, Canterbury Museum, Art Museum,

2/4
Head down to Dunedin, then to Moerki and Catlins to see penguins

2/5-9
Hang around Te Anau area and try to get a spot on the Milford Track (may requires some begging). Otherwise, I will resort to some alternative options such as group kayaking tours through the sounds or the an alternative Track

2/9
Drive from Haast to Arthurs Pass (perhaps stopping in Queenstown for a jet boat ride) to hike Avalanche Peak. Stay here overnight

2/10
Waipara Valley and Kaikora for the seal colony here. Relax or Roam for the day

2/11
2 hour commute to Lewis Pass for a hike
Reefton for Ice Cream
Graymouth for Dinner (again, I'm copying somebody else's itinerary here!)
Sunset drive up to Punakaiki (pancake rocks)

2/12
Kayak river @ Punakaiki to see more rocks
Drive to Nine Mile Beach
Stay in Charleston the night

2/13
Drive to Lyell Walk
Tramp the Six Mile Walkway
Head to Abel Tasman

2/14
I was advised to stay in this area (Abel Tasman) for a few days
I'll also try to fit in a walk up Franz Josef Glacier
I have up to 2/18 on the South Island and all of the above is completely tentative unless it's been scheduled ahead of time

2/19
Arrive via ferry in Wellington and head to Napier for wine country
Lake Taupo
Stay in Rotarua for the night

2/20
Waitakere Loop and Beach
See glow worms in caves (if I can find them)
Search for the Cowrey (sp) tree...still haven't found anybody who can tell me where exactly to find this.

2/21
Rangitoto Island Loop

2/22
A day to roam and relax or explore
Perhaps Haurkai Gulf or the Zoological Gardens
Return car today.

2/23-2/27
Surf tour. Yea!!!!

2/28
Depart for Sydney
Check into hostel (no, I did not reserve one, so this could be quite the experience--good or bad)
Roam Syd a bit
8pm show at the Sydney Opera House

3/1
Depending on what I can swing, today will either be the Blue Mountains to see the Three Sisters for the day, or will be spent at the zoo and aquarium. I'm also going to try to do a bridge climb here to save time for other things when I return.

3/2-14
13 Day Tour from Sydney to Alice Springs stopping at Melbourne, Adelaide, Ayer's Rock, and lots of other fun spots along the way. Too much detail to add it now, but here's the link: http://www.touristaustralia.com.au/online/tao.cgi?ct=tours&md=second&id=14&-Backpacker%20Tours-Sydney
I'll let ya know how it goes.

3/15-3/20
Still deliberating whether or not to go to Perth or stay in Alice Springs or head back down to Melbourne. I can only do one. Decisions, decisions!

3/20-3/25
Cairns Adventure tour as seen here: http://www.backpackertours.com.au/shop2/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/35_70_12/products_id/30

3/26
Take the bus or hitch a ride down to Airlie Beach

3/27-4/3
I opted for this tour, less Noosa Everglades (bc it's no longer offered) http://www.airliebeach.com/whitsunday-packages/backpacker-packages/backpacker-b5.php

4/3
Head down to Sydney either by bus or plane (I'm really pushing my luck here)

4/4
Explore some local beaches, such as Palm Beach, about two hours north of Sydney for the day after visiting the zoo or aquarium if possible. Possibly stay overnight here if I've seen the zoo and aquarium and done the Blue Mountains

4/5
Most likely a very busy free day, doing all sorts of things that I've discovered while I've been here. Maybe just go to the beach for some relaxation and lazing around on my last day.

4/6
Depart Sydney at 10 am and arrive in Cali at 7am. I'll be going through a time warp!

4/6-4/9
Unwind in LA or San Diego for a few days.
Depart on the 9th, and arrive home just before midnight. Whew! Is it over already????

Thursday, January 8, 2009

Testing....Testing

We'll call this my trial post as I'm still in the [last minute] planning stages of my trip to the land of Oz (and NZ), but I thought that this would be a good place to start. You see, I am somewhat torn as to my exact route that I'll take to go over and under and through and past all of the wonderful places that these two countries have to offer. So I'm sitting here, drawing on my rather primitive looking map in pink, green, red, and blue as to what my options are, which will take the least time or allow me to see as much of a place as possible while I'm there, which will be most cost effective, when ferries, trains, and flights leave, their place of departure, and time and place of arrival. I come to a tough one--Tasmania. Oh, how I'd love to go to Tasmania! And yet, it's such an inconvenience. It would mean backtracking to Melbourne from Alice Springs, which would require a pretty penny--about the same by flight or rail, followed by an overnight ferry ride across the Bass Strait to Devonport, which is an additional $200. This does not include the day's activities, nor does it factor in transportation. So I think to myself, "Perhaps Tasmania would be a good place to learn how to drive. It's not too big, you really can't get lost as the only interstate is basically a giant circle, and I'm sure there'd be plenty of friendly faces along the way."



Naturally, the first thing I want to do is find how long it would take for me to drive to and from the various cities I'd like to visit and if it would all be worth my while, or if I should devise an alternative plan. It would really be senseless for me to hire (their word for rent) a car and not have ample time to visit all the places I want to see. It might be a better idea to simply use the rail system, or perhaps to allot more time than just one day for Tazzy. So I go to good old Google, click on maps, and then choose "directions" by car. As the starting location I typed in "Devonport Tasmania Australia" and as the destination, I simply typed "Hobart", assuming that it will just assume that I want to remain in Tasmania. I read the directions, and if this is how long it's going to take me to get there, I had certainly better think twice about going to Tasmania for just one day. I have a feeling that the most exhausting portions would be #53, 113, and 128. Go ahead, give it a look yourself. ;-) http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=Devonport+TAS,+Australia&geocode=&dirflg=&daddr=Hobart&f=d&hl=en&sll=-41.175455,146.351294&sspn=0.049939,0.087547&ie=UTF8&z=3