First off, I cannot rave enough about the quality and price (well, considering the current exchange rate) of food. It is excellent--or at least the few places where I've dined.
After yesterday's post, I got on the road and headed to Abel Tasman. Sophia is clearly a Kiwi, because she decided to quit working for me about thirty minutes after I got back on the road. Fortunately the signs were well posted and I had no navigational problems. I slept in the parking lot of the National Park and awoke this morning to do a little bit of hiking. Initially I had planned to go via water taxi to a more remote portion of Abel Tasman, but out of convenience, time, and cost, I decided to just walk the first portion rather than take transportation to the more advertised areas. I walked 2.5 hours in forest, over trickling streams and little waterfalls, and alongside the ocean. On the way back, I stopped off at a little piece of heaven (Apple Tree Bay, I believe it was) where the sand is actually more of little pebbles, gravel really. It was nice to not have to deal with the sand factor. I swam in the aqua and extremely chilly waters (had to be in the sixties!) and then laid on the shore for about thirty or so minutes. I have been in NZ over two weeks now and am still pasty, so I did what people are warned against doing--I went sans sunscreen (which I've actually been doing all along, but haven't had the benefit of water to reflect the sun until today). Save for some on my face (Melaleuca sunscreen works great, btw. No allergic reactions and no blistering and burning where I use it), I let my skin soak up the sun. Fortunately this story does not end with me complaining about how crispy I am. It was just enough to get a good base going on in preparation for more rays next week. :-)
I finished up around 3 PM, and then drove a bit until I came across an i-site (basically it's a national travel agency that will arrange as much as they possibly can for you). I booked my ferry out of Picton to Wellington for tomorrow afternoon, and then headed off to Picton from where I am writing. I'm finally getting a weeks worth of laundry done and am so pleased! One of the things you grow to miss about home are free laundry (and not having to do it in a bathroom sink for it to be free) and hair dryers. I never used the hair dryer often at home, but when it gets in the forties or fifties at night, it comes in quite handy. That's all for now!
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
Monday, February 16, 2009
Playing Catch-Up
I'm sitting in a Cafe in some small town right now, waiting to be served my meal, and then will be off again, but thought I'd try to catch you up in the mean time. It will likely not be in chronological order, but I'll do my best to work backwards from today to when I last posted.
So as I already told you, I'm sitting in a Cafe and just finished an hour plus jetboating tour. I learned a little history on jetboating, such as it was invented by an NZ farmer, and is the design behind waverunners and other such marine vessels that use water as a means of propulsion. I actually stumbled upon the jetboating tour on my way over to Punakaiki back on the West Coast, as I've zig-zagged my way around the South Island. When I saw the sign yesterday, I decided that if I was low on time, I would forgo the kayaking in Punakaiki and go with the jetboat ride on the way back....when I was passing through Queenstown on the return from Milford Sound, it was about 7pm, and I was not up to taking another day off just to jetboat. So anyhow, after some snooping around this morning and spending a little time on the beach and on a brief trail in Punakaiki, I got back on the road and came across the jetboating company where I had to wait about an hour and a half for the next ride, but I thought it was well worth it :-) The boat is capable of going up to 100kph in as little as 10cm of water, and if my conversions are correct, that's about 62mph in about 4 inches of water. Wow!
Last night I found myself sitting in a little tavern in Punakaiki for my first purchased meal since the fish n chips that I had after my Banks Peninsula tramp. I could smell the food as I walked back from a little exploring of the pancake rocks (after which Punakaiki is named) and decided that I would not be cooking for myself if the tavern was still open. I arrived ten minutes before ordering ended, and after trying the one in Akaroa, asked the bartender if he had a light summer ale and he presented to me a light ale made with ginger and honey that bore a pleasing resemblance to ginger-ale. As I sipped my ale and waited for my Puni fish burger (it was delicious and humongous!), I tried to figure out the game of rugby just by watching. I'm still in the dark.
When I last wrote, I had just finished kayaking Milford Sound. On my way out, I picked up a Brit whose motorcycle's tire went flat and drove him back to the lodge, and then to his bike. Since Judith the German, I will only pick up temporary strays--no overnights! I then began my mad dash back to the East Coast as the nephew of a friend wanted me to try to be in Nelson--a 16 hour drive--by the next evening. Not sure what to do, and without any cellular reception, I initially made my way Queenstown, which I immediately left upon arrival because I figured I'd have to spend an entire extra day there just to do the boat ride. I twas nearing 9pm, so I fueled up, and headed back to Oamaru again to stay the night on the beach. On the drive over, the clouds cleared the sky like a curtain being pulled back, and introduced bit by bit the many stars as they took the stage against a navy sky. I kept driving and driving, dividing my attention between the winding road and the stars. Upon turning a corner and coming down a mountain road, a yellow 3/4 moon shone, reflecting on the lake beside the road. If you haven't realized it by now, I have an obsession with the moon, sun, and stars. Anybody who knows me really well knows just how seriously I can take it. So I stopped on the side of the road, and made my best attempt to capture the moment. Not much justice was done, but that's pretty much always the case when you take a picture. After hours of driving, I pulled into my spot for the night at about 12:45 am: a cliff overlooking the beach below.
Then next morning, Saturday, I awoke around 9am. The notion of losing a few pounds as a result of decreased funds for food--don't think it's working. After a nice little breakfast whipped up with my handy gas stove, I sped off to CHC since that was the only known location that my phone worked. Taking the "scenic route", a three hour drive took about five, while passing through mountains on one side and farmland, plains, and ocean on the other, I also passed through a herd of sheep in the middle of the road (I got not free dinner out of this bit), and drove alongside some serious cyclist for about 15 miles who were in a race along a country road. I revisited the Botanic Gardens as I sipped a Chai latte and checked my voicemail. After finding out that the mother of the guy in Nelson had a bed made up for me, I felt kind of obligated to go, so I headed up that way and made it to Pelorus (I think that was the name) National Park just outside of Blenheim, a city that was the closest thing to Boca Raton that I have seen since I got here. I rolled in around 10:30pm, after requesting that God find me a spot as I didn't feel right spending the night alongside the road practically in somebody's vineyard as I was in "wine country". The park was a nice little gem, and I started the next day with a refreshing shower, a double scoop of ice cream (one scoop rum raisin, one scoop butterscotch), and a 30 minute trail walk. I then made my way to Nelson, where I discovered that my phone worked, but only in about a square mile vicinity.
After a bit of trying, I finally got in contact with the people at whose home I'd be staying, and we spent the afternoon at the beach as that was a "touristy thing" to do, so said by my host--I thought we were going to see Nelson Lake. Oh well. Unfortunately, this little side trip seemed to be probably one of the regrettable moments of the trip so far. The ran a bit of a side business as a home stay for travelers, and it seemed just a bit impersonal--I haven't learned yet to please myself rather than others, and not feel bad for doing this. This trend followed me through the afternoon when I went to Nelson Lake rather than Abel Tasman as planned, with some of the housemates who weren't what I deemed prime company once we were on our way. But this was all remedied when I arrived a few hours later in Punakaiki and was greeted by some absolutely amazing scenery! The beach makes everything better! I spent the evening checking out the pancake rocks, and what would have been the blowhole had it been high tide. What spectacular views!
Now I'm en route to Abel Tasman for either a walk or kayak tomorrow, and then off to catch the ferry to the North Island where I'll explore for a few more days until I do my surf trip. Food's here, so that's all for now!
So as I already told you, I'm sitting in a Cafe and just finished an hour plus jetboating tour. I learned a little history on jetboating, such as it was invented by an NZ farmer, and is the design behind waverunners and other such marine vessels that use water as a means of propulsion. I actually stumbled upon the jetboating tour on my way over to Punakaiki back on the West Coast, as I've zig-zagged my way around the South Island. When I saw the sign yesterday, I decided that if I was low on time, I would forgo the kayaking in Punakaiki and go with the jetboat ride on the way back....when I was passing through Queenstown on the return from Milford Sound, it was about 7pm, and I was not up to taking another day off just to jetboat. So anyhow, after some snooping around this morning and spending a little time on the beach and on a brief trail in Punakaiki, I got back on the road and came across the jetboating company where I had to wait about an hour and a half for the next ride, but I thought it was well worth it :-) The boat is capable of going up to 100kph in as little as 10cm of water, and if my conversions are correct, that's about 62mph in about 4 inches of water. Wow!
Last night I found myself sitting in a little tavern in Punakaiki for my first purchased meal since the fish n chips that I had after my Banks Peninsula tramp. I could smell the food as I walked back from a little exploring of the pancake rocks (after which Punakaiki is named) and decided that I would not be cooking for myself if the tavern was still open. I arrived ten minutes before ordering ended, and after trying the one in Akaroa, asked the bartender if he had a light summer ale and he presented to me a light ale made with ginger and honey that bore a pleasing resemblance to ginger-ale. As I sipped my ale and waited for my Puni fish burger (it was delicious and humongous!), I tried to figure out the game of rugby just by watching. I'm still in the dark.
When I last wrote, I had just finished kayaking Milford Sound. On my way out, I picked up a Brit whose motorcycle's tire went flat and drove him back to the lodge, and then to his bike. Since Judith the German, I will only pick up temporary strays--no overnights! I then began my mad dash back to the East Coast as the nephew of a friend wanted me to try to be in Nelson--a 16 hour drive--by the next evening. Not sure what to do, and without any cellular reception, I initially made my way Queenstown, which I immediately left upon arrival because I figured I'd have to spend an entire extra day there just to do the boat ride. I twas nearing 9pm, so I fueled up, and headed back to Oamaru again to stay the night on the beach. On the drive over, the clouds cleared the sky like a curtain being pulled back, and introduced bit by bit the many stars as they took the stage against a navy sky. I kept driving and driving, dividing my attention between the winding road and the stars. Upon turning a corner and coming down a mountain road, a yellow 3/4 moon shone, reflecting on the lake beside the road. If you haven't realized it by now, I have an obsession with the moon, sun, and stars. Anybody who knows me really well knows just how seriously I can take it. So I stopped on the side of the road, and made my best attempt to capture the moment. Not much justice was done, but that's pretty much always the case when you take a picture. After hours of driving, I pulled into my spot for the night at about 12:45 am: a cliff overlooking the beach below.
Then next morning, Saturday, I awoke around 9am. The notion of losing a few pounds as a result of decreased funds for food--don't think it's working. After a nice little breakfast whipped up with my handy gas stove, I sped off to CHC since that was the only known location that my phone worked. Taking the "scenic route", a three hour drive took about five, while passing through mountains on one side and farmland, plains, and ocean on the other, I also passed through a herd of sheep in the middle of the road (I got not free dinner out of this bit), and drove alongside some serious cyclist for about 15 miles who were in a race along a country road. I revisited the Botanic Gardens as I sipped a Chai latte and checked my voicemail. After finding out that the mother of the guy in Nelson had a bed made up for me, I felt kind of obligated to go, so I headed up that way and made it to Pelorus (I think that was the name) National Park just outside of Blenheim, a city that was the closest thing to Boca Raton that I have seen since I got here. I rolled in around 10:30pm, after requesting that God find me a spot as I didn't feel right spending the night alongside the road practically in somebody's vineyard as I was in "wine country". The park was a nice little gem, and I started the next day with a refreshing shower, a double scoop of ice cream (one scoop rum raisin, one scoop butterscotch), and a 30 minute trail walk. I then made my way to Nelson, where I discovered that my phone worked, but only in about a square mile vicinity.
After a bit of trying, I finally got in contact with the people at whose home I'd be staying, and we spent the afternoon at the beach as that was a "touristy thing" to do, so said by my host--I thought we were going to see Nelson Lake. Oh well. Unfortunately, this little side trip seemed to be probably one of the regrettable moments of the trip so far. The ran a bit of a side business as a home stay for travelers, and it seemed just a bit impersonal--I haven't learned yet to please myself rather than others, and not feel bad for doing this. This trend followed me through the afternoon when I went to Nelson Lake rather than Abel Tasman as planned, with some of the housemates who weren't what I deemed prime company once we were on our way. But this was all remedied when I arrived a few hours later in Punakaiki and was greeted by some absolutely amazing scenery! The beach makes everything better! I spent the evening checking out the pancake rocks, and what would have been the blowhole had it been high tide. What spectacular views!
Now I'm en route to Abel Tasman for either a walk or kayak tomorrow, and then off to catch the ferry to the North Island where I'll explore for a few more days until I do my surf trip. Food's here, so that's all for now!
Thursday, February 12, 2009
Sleeping Around
Please, get your minds out of the gutter! After staying in Oamaru for the night, I was successful in my search for penguins (and seals!) then next day. I ended up driving through Dunedin, not stopping for a combination of fear and disinterest of big cities despite my GPS (whom I named Sophia), and headed south. I have resloved to not worry about finding places to stay along the way, and simply stop in where I please. As I entered into Papatowi (sp again), "Where the river meets the ocean", I decided that this was where I definitely wanted to stay the night. Unfortunately, the first two spots were not for camping, and the second one, a breathtaking view of the ocean below, seemed a little too conspicuous. I proceeded down and came upon a turn-off to a beach. After discovering other campers here (and truly upsetting Sophia for being off course to the point of her finally giving up on telling me that my "vehicle was going the wrong way" and just telling me that I had reached my destination), I parked my little orange van and made my way to the beach.
What did I find? Absolute paradise! I could have lived happily in a 400 square foot shack for the rest of my life. It was vast, beautiful beach with a little stream of freshwater trickling into the ocean from a source that I eventually investigated. I tested out my ankle and knees with a brief run on the solid shoreline--something only I would do to see if they were better--and found that it didn't aggravate my knees (so evidently I should simply run all the time rather than walk). Anyhow, I stayed here the night, but some chilly morning rains deterred me from my initial plans of going for a swim in the crashing surf first thing in the morning. Instead, I made breakfast and headed off again but didn't get very far. Just a few minutes down the road, I came to an inviting sign for the Cathedral Caves listing the tide times and track availibility. Seeing that I wouldn't necessarily get the opportunity to explore it again, I pulled over and hopped out. NZ$5 got me on the track, and it was about a 20 minute stroll down a declining forest path to the beach where I was directed to the caves 300 meters down the beach. Entering the first cave, it is clear why they are called the Cathedral Caves as it was very tall and wide with vaulted "ceilings". Absolutely magnificent! I wandered through it, and moved on to the next one which was extremely narrow and let in such little light that I used my camera just to find my way around. It was a little too reminiscent of Tom Sawyer and Becky in the cave, so I went against my natural inclinations to continue, and turned before I regretted my curiosity. I continued on, cave after cave for about six or seven caves.
After about an hour of exploring, I turned back to set off again. Walking along the shoreline in my Columbia pants and orange fleece vest, I notice a group of four bundled individuals looking my direction who then shouted "Lisa!" and came running in my direction, greeting me with a friendly hug that nearly toppled me over. It was the two James's (Catherine's gonna hate my grammar here, I know it!), Jodie, and Kate, the three Kiwis and the Brit, respectively, from the camp ground and Puzzling Place. After catching up and discovering that they were only a few minutes down the road the night before, I headed back off, but first stopped at Curio Bay to view the dolphins and seals (actually, one territorial seal who held up traffic) at the suggestion of my new mates. The Catlins were an absolutely spectacular drive, filled with little walks and plenty of scenery. From here, I headed into Invercargill where I signed up for my kayaking tour in Milford Sounds, which Sophia told me was a 10 hour drive but turned out to be only about five or so, thank God! I truly upset her as I took multiple detours on the way, and her little map often showed me driving off the road, but alongside it as she prompted me to "turn around" as my vehicle was "going the wrong direction".
Once at Milford Lodge, I checked to see if there were any spaces available, but they were absoltuely booked, so I headed back down the winding road when I was approached by a girl who needed a ride. A German hitch hiker who had waaay more luggage than I, including an admitted 5 kg of books and her guitar, had found herself stranded as she wanted to go to the glaciers, but her ride was going to the lodge. I told her that I could give her a short ride, but I was camping in Milford so that I could kayak in the morning. Once she got in the car it began to rain, so I felt obligated to offer her to spend the night in the back of the car. I try to be nice, people, I really do. But can I tell you how annoyed I was that she was already acquainted with my type of vehicle, knew that there was a gas stove (inconveniently buried) and wanted her hot soup and tea? And when I was ready to go to sleep at 10 pm since I had to be up the mountain, a 45 minute drive, by 7:45 the next morning, she said she couldn't fall asleep without reading first. And let's not leave out that she was insistent on not killing the moths and flies that were attracted to the light because they didn't know any better. Above all was her snoring that kept me up most the night--probably why you are getting a taste of grumpy Lisa right now. I have decided to be more discerning with strays, or not take them at all. However, what made all that better was the absolutely amazing kayaking tour that I took through the sounds this morning! Totally worth the fuss, and boasting some awesome scenery. Of course I get to the best part of the last 24 hours and my clock has but a minute left after contributing $7! Well, I'm off to who knows where, except that it's north somewhere. Til next time!
What did I find? Absolute paradise! I could have lived happily in a 400 square foot shack for the rest of my life. It was vast, beautiful beach with a little stream of freshwater trickling into the ocean from a source that I eventually investigated. I tested out my ankle and knees with a brief run on the solid shoreline--something only I would do to see if they were better--and found that it didn't aggravate my knees (so evidently I should simply run all the time rather than walk). Anyhow, I stayed here the night, but some chilly morning rains deterred me from my initial plans of going for a swim in the crashing surf first thing in the morning. Instead, I made breakfast and headed off again but didn't get very far. Just a few minutes down the road, I came to an inviting sign for the Cathedral Caves listing the tide times and track availibility. Seeing that I wouldn't necessarily get the opportunity to explore it again, I pulled over and hopped out. NZ$5 got me on the track, and it was about a 20 minute stroll down a declining forest path to the beach where I was directed to the caves 300 meters down the beach. Entering the first cave, it is clear why they are called the Cathedral Caves as it was very tall and wide with vaulted "ceilings". Absolutely magnificent! I wandered through it, and moved on to the next one which was extremely narrow and let in such little light that I used my camera just to find my way around. It was a little too reminiscent of Tom Sawyer and Becky in the cave, so I went against my natural inclinations to continue, and turned before I regretted my curiosity. I continued on, cave after cave for about six or seven caves.
After about an hour of exploring, I turned back to set off again. Walking along the shoreline in my Columbia pants and orange fleece vest, I notice a group of four bundled individuals looking my direction who then shouted "Lisa!" and came running in my direction, greeting me with a friendly hug that nearly toppled me over. It was the two James's (Catherine's gonna hate my grammar here, I know it!), Jodie, and Kate, the three Kiwis and the Brit, respectively, from the camp ground and Puzzling Place. After catching up and discovering that they were only a few minutes down the road the night before, I headed back off, but first stopped at Curio Bay to view the dolphins and seals (actually, one territorial seal who held up traffic) at the suggestion of my new mates. The Catlins were an absolutely spectacular drive, filled with little walks and plenty of scenery. From here, I headed into Invercargill where I signed up for my kayaking tour in Milford Sounds, which Sophia told me was a 10 hour drive but turned out to be only about five or so, thank God! I truly upset her as I took multiple detours on the way, and her little map often showed me driving off the road, but alongside it as she prompted me to "turn around" as my vehicle was "going the wrong direction".
Once at Milford Lodge, I checked to see if there were any spaces available, but they were absoltuely booked, so I headed back down the winding road when I was approached by a girl who needed a ride. A German hitch hiker who had waaay more luggage than I, including an admitted 5 kg of books and her guitar, had found herself stranded as she wanted to go to the glaciers, but her ride was going to the lodge. I told her that I could give her a short ride, but I was camping in Milford so that I could kayak in the morning. Once she got in the car it began to rain, so I felt obligated to offer her to spend the night in the back of the car. I try to be nice, people, I really do. But can I tell you how annoyed I was that she was already acquainted with my type of vehicle, knew that there was a gas stove (inconveniently buried) and wanted her hot soup and tea? And when I was ready to go to sleep at 10 pm since I had to be up the mountain, a 45 minute drive, by 7:45 the next morning, she said she couldn't fall asleep without reading first. And let's not leave out that she was insistent on not killing the moths and flies that were attracted to the light because they didn't know any better. Above all was her snoring that kept me up most the night--probably why you are getting a taste of grumpy Lisa right now. I have decided to be more discerning with strays, or not take them at all. However, what made all that better was the absolutely amazing kayaking tour that I took through the sounds this morning! Totally worth the fuss, and boasting some awesome scenery. Of course I get to the best part of the last 24 hours and my clock has but a minute left after contributing $7! Well, I'm off to who knows where, except that it's north somewhere. Til next time!
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Penguins!
I departed Wanaka yesterday afternoon, and was on the road a good 40 minutes when I realized that I needed to fill my gas tank. With filling stations being as unpredictable as they are in many parts, I turned around, headed back to town, and fueled up my orange little van. On my way out, I realized how late it would be before I got to Te Aunua (sp?), and decided to head back to the east coast to explore the penguins. I went in search of the yellow eyed ones last night, but could not find any. However, there is a reserve for blue penguins (they are under a foot tall), and I went there for a 9 pm showing. No cameras were allowed as they are sensitive to the light, but sodium lighting was used (like sea turtles, they can't see certain light spectrums) for our viewing pleasure. They were so entertaining to watch as they approached their little nests, some youngsters waiting eagerly for mom or dad to bring back some food (the parents share the task of warming eggs and feeding until they are mature enough to fend for themselves). There was a seal on the rocks, and whenever it moved, many of the penguins would retreat.
TodayI'm off to see what other species of penguins I can find, and will try to get some pictures (although it's difficult for me to upload them while I'm away. My time is up, so I must go. Bye!
TodayI'm off to see what other species of penguins I can find, and will try to get some pictures (although it's difficult for me to upload them while I'm away. My time is up, so I must go. Bye!
Monday, February 9, 2009
Always In Motion
Having been in NZ for over a week now, there is something that I've noticed and learned about this country that I did not previously realize. I had no idea this was such an outdoor oriented country. It seems like everybody is outside doing one thing or another. Regardless of age, shape, or size, they are all about anything that incorporates adventure into athleticism. I see fifty-something women getting into some serious mountain biking, teenagers skydiving, guys in their twenties making a weekend of cycling 150K to and from a campsite. Even in the most remote areas, I regularly see people running laps around their farm property or in full triathlete gear running besides the highway. Maybe it's the fact that NZ is an adventure capital to many--a detail of which I was unaware before I arrived. Bungee jumping originated in Queenstown, jetboats were created here, and pastimes of residents are often the more extreme sports, from paragliding and windsurfing to snow boarding and endurance runs. Even in a sleepy dot on the map town whose main street was only three blocks, the first sign I noticed when rolling through was one pointing to the skate park.
Coming from a background in nutrition, this drew my attention to a detail that is often neglected in the states. Activity for the experience and not just (or even) the physical or physiological benefits. Men with lovehandles and women with extra padding are capable of keeping a very good running pace. They could care less about how they look in their exercise gear, although their are outdoor apparel stores everywhere. People take their kayaks out to the lake or beach before work, and go for a run and a swim in the early evening. Or their work involves such activities. I was camping with a Kiwi the other night who works at a summer camp in MA during the summers, and his campers refused to believe that it was acceptable to teach kayaking as a profession--they wanted to know what his real job was. It makes sense to build jobs around the present landscape rather than to landscape to create jobs, especially in a country of such diverse scenery.
Well, I'm going to go ice my ankle now. I twisted it jumping off rocks into the river just after I completed a river surfing session. ;-)
Coming from a background in nutrition, this drew my attention to a detail that is often neglected in the states. Activity for the experience and not just (or even) the physical or physiological benefits. Men with lovehandles and women with extra padding are capable of keeping a very good running pace. They could care less about how they look in their exercise gear, although their are outdoor apparel stores everywhere. People take their kayaks out to the lake or beach before work, and go for a run and a swim in the early evening. Or their work involves such activities. I was camping with a Kiwi the other night who works at a summer camp in MA during the summers, and his campers refused to believe that it was acceptable to teach kayaking as a profession--they wanted to know what his real job was. It makes sense to build jobs around the present landscape rather than to landscape to create jobs, especially in a country of such diverse scenery.
Well, I'm going to go ice my ankle now. I twisted it jumping off rocks into the river just after I completed a river surfing session. ;-)
Saturday, February 7, 2009
On The Road Again
So I'm sitting here on the beach in Greymouth as I write this (not type--I decided to type after writing since I have to pay a dollar per 10 minutes for computer use). It was quite grey yesterday when I arrived and I couldn't help but wonder if this minor detail was pertinent to the name of the city or was mere coincidence. Well it has cleared up nicely this morning, and I am contemplating putting off my departure for the glaciers by about an hour so I can spend some quality time roaming the beach (it has a smooth rock and dark sand section with lots of driftwood on both). The waves seemed to break nicely here yesterday, but there's a decent groundswell here this morning from the weather that came through last night.
Anyhow, my apologies for being away and not contributing for the last few days. No travelling mate ase of yet, and I am not too sure that I'd want one at this point--at least not for full duration of the remainder of my stay. I have met plenty of nice people along the way, however. I'm at my half-way point for the visit to the South Island (crazy, right?!), and I made some major revisions to my itinerary. I have none. Okay, well, I still have the same list of places and things to do, but I'm not doing them in that order. What provoked this sudden (impulsive?) behavior was me driving back from Akaroa (my knees have still not recovered, and this also contributed to the revision) and had intended on going to see the Sign of the Kiwi outside of Christchurch (CHC). So I have my map, and my intended address, and the route all highlighted, and I'm following the road signs when it happens--a roundabout! I frantically search the exit options for the location I need, but it's nowhere to be found; only the immediate cities or places in between my current position and the desired destination. I glance at the map, hesitating to enter the roundabout from Hell. "Well, that vicinity is close to where I want to be, so that could be it. But the first exit is also on the way. Crap!" Take this scenario and repeat it about half a dozen times. I ultimately did stop for directions, but that honestly was no help. So here I am, driving around in the car, on the verge or a panic attack. Having a panic attack is going to accomplish nothing, as I've figured out over the years, and is definitely not a recurring experience that I want to have on my trip. So I manage to navigate my way back to CHC just fine, I drive tot he car rental service, and tell the woman (the same woman who told me that GPS would be a waste of money that would be better used towards beer and biscuits, neither of which she seemed to be missing) that I wanted the GPS. Once I got it and figured out how to use it, a weight was lifted off my shoulders! No hesitation! Freedom! All of this took place on Wednesday. So I headed back to the hostel that I'd stayed the first night in CHC, did some grocery shopping (my comfort activity--really, it totally settles my nereves), and decided to play catch-up the next day.
I woke up bright and early on Thursday and visited the Botanic Gardens, Canterbury Museum, and the Cathedral. I also swung by Vodafone (their primary cell phone provider) and got a new SIM card which has rendered itself useless since there's only reception in the big cities in NZ. Thus far, that is CHC. (So glad I didn't get the iPhone before I left.) Buying SIM cards here can be like a drug deal should you wander into any convenience store that advertises them. They're taped to a piece of paper with an accompanying phone number and the clerk will only take sach. Credit? Sorry, no deal. Anyhow, it looks like my uncle might get a SIM card from me should I not get any takers on it before my departure. After all this, I drove to Willowsprings Reserve, or something to that effect, to see the Ko Tane experience, which is an encounter with the traditional Maori culture. Think Mai Kai less the drinks and dinner and replaced with an animal reserve for my Florida readers. I then departed CHC for Kaikoura to stay the night.
Something I have noticed about NZ is that they are very laconic with their road signs. I'm driving on the motorway (interstate) to Kaikoura at about 7:30 PM or so (projected arrival of 10 PM) and I start seeing road signs. Not billboards, but actual roadsigns with various messages like the ones you see on the turnpike. A steaming cup of coffe that said "Driver Reviver" and pointed towards some restaurants. The next gave me a laugh with dashes that were separated and eventually came together that instructed "Merge like a zipper". But I laughed hardest when I saw "Tired Drivers Die" with a car rolling off the road and "ZZZZZ" coming from it. I have seen others since, such as "Fatigue kills. Don't drive tired." and "Drive sober. Don't become extinct." Some strong (and often entertaining) messages.
I arrived in Kaikour just before 10 PM. The thing about NZ is that everything but the bars close between 5 and 8 PM, and unfortunately this included the camper park where I intended to stay the night. Driving along the coast, I noticed some pretty amazing spots overlooking the ocean, and keeping in mind that "Tired drivers die" as my eyes began to grow weary, I turned back and drove 15 K to a spot across from a motel and a few hundred yards from another parked van. In the morning, I dorve to Seal Bach to see the seals sun themeselves on the rocks, but I think I got there a little early as there were none on the rocks and just one was flying solo in the water. Little guy knows how to do it right ;-). I skipped Waipara as wine tasting wasn't a priority and I'm not sure how I'd react with allergies and all. With the intentions of heading straight for Greymouth on Friday, I started west but decided to stop in Hamner Springs, a quaint little mountain town full of shopping andn activities, but boasting natural hot sulfer springs. After a little shopping (can you believe that I went leisure shopping?) I spent about 2 hours in the pools in hopes they would ease my aching knees. I met a handful of nice people here, some Americans, others natives.
Saturday morning, I left the Springs and headed towards Greymouth finally. I stopped at Lewis Pass (a 5-7 day hike) and walked the trail a bit until my knees couldn't handle anymore, which was about 45 minutes one way, but still got some excellent scenery. I continued on to Reefton where I stopped for some Rum Raisin ice cream (sooooo good!) and got into Greymouth around 4 PM yesterday. Today I head south and will hopefull be able to check out the glaciers. Time is running out on my clock, so that's all for now!
Anyhow, my apologies for being away and not contributing for the last few days. No travelling mate ase of yet, and I am not too sure that I'd want one at this point--at least not for full duration of the remainder of my stay. I have met plenty of nice people along the way, however. I'm at my half-way point for the visit to the South Island (crazy, right?!), and I made some major revisions to my itinerary. I have none. Okay, well, I still have the same list of places and things to do, but I'm not doing them in that order. What provoked this sudden (impulsive?) behavior was me driving back from Akaroa (my knees have still not recovered, and this also contributed to the revision) and had intended on going to see the Sign of the Kiwi outside of Christchurch (CHC). So I have my map, and my intended address, and the route all highlighted, and I'm following the road signs when it happens--a roundabout! I frantically search the exit options for the location I need, but it's nowhere to be found; only the immediate cities or places in between my current position and the desired destination. I glance at the map, hesitating to enter the roundabout from Hell. "Well, that vicinity is close to where I want to be, so that could be it. But the first exit is also on the way. Crap!" Take this scenario and repeat it about half a dozen times. I ultimately did stop for directions, but that honestly was no help. So here I am, driving around in the car, on the verge or a panic attack. Having a panic attack is going to accomplish nothing, as I've figured out over the years, and is definitely not a recurring experience that I want to have on my trip. So I manage to navigate my way back to CHC just fine, I drive tot he car rental service, and tell the woman (the same woman who told me that GPS would be a waste of money that would be better used towards beer and biscuits, neither of which she seemed to be missing) that I wanted the GPS. Once I got it and figured out how to use it, a weight was lifted off my shoulders! No hesitation! Freedom! All of this took place on Wednesday. So I headed back to the hostel that I'd stayed the first night in CHC, did some grocery shopping (my comfort activity--really, it totally settles my nereves), and decided to play catch-up the next day.
I woke up bright and early on Thursday and visited the Botanic Gardens, Canterbury Museum, and the Cathedral. I also swung by Vodafone (their primary cell phone provider) and got a new SIM card which has rendered itself useless since there's only reception in the big cities in NZ. Thus far, that is CHC. (So glad I didn't get the iPhone before I left.) Buying SIM cards here can be like a drug deal should you wander into any convenience store that advertises them. They're taped to a piece of paper with an accompanying phone number and the clerk will only take sach. Credit? Sorry, no deal. Anyhow, it looks like my uncle might get a SIM card from me should I not get any takers on it before my departure. After all this, I drove to Willowsprings Reserve, or something to that effect, to see the Ko Tane experience, which is an encounter with the traditional Maori culture. Think Mai Kai less the drinks and dinner and replaced with an animal reserve for my Florida readers. I then departed CHC for Kaikoura to stay the night.
Something I have noticed about NZ is that they are very laconic with their road signs. I'm driving on the motorway (interstate) to Kaikoura at about 7:30 PM or so (projected arrival of 10 PM) and I start seeing road signs. Not billboards, but actual roadsigns with various messages like the ones you see on the turnpike. A steaming cup of coffe that said "Driver Reviver" and pointed towards some restaurants. The next gave me a laugh with dashes that were separated and eventually came together that instructed "Merge like a zipper". But I laughed hardest when I saw "Tired Drivers Die" with a car rolling off the road and "ZZZZZ" coming from it. I have seen others since, such as "Fatigue kills. Don't drive tired." and "Drive sober. Don't become extinct." Some strong (and often entertaining) messages.
I arrived in Kaikour just before 10 PM. The thing about NZ is that everything but the bars close between 5 and 8 PM, and unfortunately this included the camper park where I intended to stay the night. Driving along the coast, I noticed some pretty amazing spots overlooking the ocean, and keeping in mind that "Tired drivers die" as my eyes began to grow weary, I turned back and drove 15 K to a spot across from a motel and a few hundred yards from another parked van. In the morning, I dorve to Seal Bach to see the seals sun themeselves on the rocks, but I think I got there a little early as there were none on the rocks and just one was flying solo in the water. Little guy knows how to do it right ;-). I skipped Waipara as wine tasting wasn't a priority and I'm not sure how I'd react with allergies and all. With the intentions of heading straight for Greymouth on Friday, I started west but decided to stop in Hamner Springs, a quaint little mountain town full of shopping andn activities, but boasting natural hot sulfer springs. After a little shopping (can you believe that I went leisure shopping?) I spent about 2 hours in the pools in hopes they would ease my aching knees. I met a handful of nice people here, some Americans, others natives.
Saturday morning, I left the Springs and headed towards Greymouth finally. I stopped at Lewis Pass (a 5-7 day hike) and walked the trail a bit until my knees couldn't handle anymore, which was about 45 minutes one way, but still got some excellent scenery. I continued on to Reefton where I stopped for some Rum Raisin ice cream (sooooo good!) and got into Greymouth around 4 PM yesterday. Today I head south and will hopefull be able to check out the glaciers. Time is running out on my clock, so that's all for now!
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Star Struck...No, Not That Kind
I knew I was a bit loopy in my last post....I left out, quite possibly, one of the absolute best parts of the tramp. During the second night, we stayed in Stony Bay which had a quaint little country store (fresh eggs, produce, meat, cereals, and an honesty box). The entire store was no larger than the size of a gas station bathroom, and I was a little too obsessed with it. They even had an old fashioned scale to weigh your purchases. Anyway, these huts didn't have electricity as did those from the night before. As it got dark I headed down to the beach with another girl in hopes of seeing penguins. We only saw a couple seals on the beach, but we did hear some penguins under a neighboring hut. Anyhow, as there was no means of lighting other than fire, we all went to bed by about ten. Around twelve, I woke up (very annoyed) by my bunkmates snoring and talking in her sleep, and since it was so dark, couldn't find my ear plugs. I also suddenly realized that I had to go to the bathroom. The loo is about 50 yards from the hut, but you must go outside. I laid there for a few minutes, deliberating if it was worth it, when I decided I had no choice. Once I managed my way down from the bunk without killing myself and waking everybody else, I stepped outside into the chilly air. I looked in front of me, and then up. I can't say I've ever been so in awe in my life, at least not that I can recall. I was actually a little startled when I saw them....Stars! Bright, brilliant, gleaming stars against a pure black sky. No moon in sight, just hundreds and hundreds of stars. Even when I've gone camping, I've never seen such a clear sky. They shone brighter than those displays you see at a science musueam. So I just stood there, still awestruck for a good few minutes, and have now decided that I just might need to find a guide to the constellations for the Southern Hemisphere.
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