It is Saturday morning and I am currently standing here in the Auckland airport to depart for Sydney. I am leaching off of the free internet here, so I will try to make it quick. Below is a post I started, but never finished, so I'll complete and post it here.
(2/24-27/09) After a trip to the Post Shop to ship some things home yesterday morning, I headed back to the hostel from hell to check out (after waiting in the lobby for 15 minutes for them to unchain the front entry) and went straight to the harbor for the pick-up for my surf trip. There were nine others awaiting the arrival of Kane, our surf instructor and entertainer for the next five days. We all tossed our things into the trailer that was connected to a big van and headed on our way to an unknown destination. Following a drive of approximately four hours, we stopped in a little town to do some quick shopping for items we might need for the week (fine, we stopped at Liquor King, their equivalent to ABC Liquors) and got some goods for the week. After having to make soooo many decisions, we were back on winding country roads, up and down mountains, and arrived at our destination nearing four in the afternoon.
Around 6:30 PM, we squirmed into our wetsuits and headed down to the shoreline for our first lesson. I decided to stick with the neophytes as I don't think simply jumping up on a 25 lb rescue board as a ripple pushes you along really qualifies as surfing. It turned out to be a good thing as I had multiple nasty habits, primarily caused by paddling. After a quick sand session and practicing standing, Kane let us "have a play" in the white water. The bach (basically a short term beach accomodation or house) was just right. Bunk beds in the rooms, a nice sized socializing area, pool table (something I'll never be able to do well), and most importantly, beach front with a killer view of the coast.
The next day we went out early in the morning, and I soon progressed to the unbroken waves. It's pretty amazing that I lifeguarded so long and still had no real grasp of surfing. In only five days I quickly acquired skills that I had not in over five years of guarding--although it did help to have a good teacher, too. With Kane's instruction, I quickly went from learning when just the right moment to catch the wave was, to riding it in straight, to riding along the break, and finally to learn a little carving. I was really impressed that he could watch us all, and then tell us to make the most minute change and it made the world of a difference. He knew just by watching me me from shore that I was afraid of nose diving and so kept myself about an extra inch back from where I should have been in order to catch it. He claimed that this was the worst week of surf he's ever seen, but we would never have known that as he took us to some of the more favorable spots on both the east (Pacific) and west (Tasman) coasts, ensuring that we got what we came to get. It was a spectacular five days of meeting some really wonderful people with some potential contacts in Oz. I am actually somewhat sad to leave, but Oz calls.
I wish I could write more, but I am pressed for time and there's a line of pretty annoyed people waiting for a computer. Some of the pics you see on the slideshow are of us on the beach, but I am waiting for the actual action shots. I'll catch up on here again soon!
Monday, February 23, 2009
Friday, February 20, 2009
Turning Point
I set out in search of the Kauri yesterday morning, and I told Sophia EXACTLY where I wanted to go. I even double-checked to make sure she knew what I wanted. So an hour into driving, I notice I'm going the wrong direction. Evidently, if two different locations have a street with the same name, Sophia thinks she can go ahead and choose whichever she fancies. So I turned her off, and headed back north to find the trees. Unfortunately, after about another hour or so of driving through winding mountain roads at speeds between 15mph and 28mph, I had to use the restroom, which was quite obviously non-existant out in the middle of the mountains. Quite used to it, I looked for the first place on the side of the road to pull over. I found a picnic area, but there were people eating there, so I continued onward until about a mile down the road I found a spot with a lot of brush. I slipped on my flip flops and, as I was heading down a little bank, got my foot tangled in a vine that was covered in thorns which ultimately found a new home in my toes and foot. Triage time. Bathroom or bleeding foot? I chose the former and then tended to the latter which had about ten thorns in it and was bleeding far more than I'd expected it to be.
I was getting annoyed with today's plans.
I decided that this was it and if I didn't get to the forest in a bit that I would turn back and head off to Auckland early. So I drove, and drove, and then started to get very tired. Of course I needed to heed the warnings that "Fatigue Kills", right? So I decided that if finding the Kauri (a local suggested I go to Coramandel rather than the northwest) was going to be more of a chore and make my day miserable, that it pretty much wasn't worth it. Don't get me wrong, I was all about seeing the Kauri, but I scrapped my initial itinerary in the beginning of the trip for such reasons as this. I was heading upwards towards a beach when it started to pour and I decided to turn back. On the way back, however, I stumbled upon a nice little waterfall walk. They don't seem to have as many trails and walks on the side of the road here as did the South Island, most likely because it's more populated here and there are other means for rest stops. So I pulled over and wandered down the trail. I'd quickly forgotten that some of the best parts of my travels weren't necessarily the ultimate destinations, but were all the little stops along the way that cut up the journey. Once I completed my walk, I got on the road and headed for Auckland.
So everything's going just fine as I'm driving along Highway 2 when, pink, another rock hits my windshield, this one leaving a nice 12 inch crack down the middle. This was certainly not an improvement to my day. So I just let God have it, and keep going. I arrived in Auckland, and immediately decided that I don't much fancy it here. Perhaps it was because when I got off the motorway and Sophia could not navigate me around roads that had been blocked off for a cycling race (damn cyclists--isn't it interesting how the little things that we enjoy so much can easily annoy us?), and I had to locate another motor park for my last night with the car. I finally arrive at a nice little camper park in an Auckland suburb and stay here the night. I got all my plans squared away by searching online and even tracked down a hostel near the post office so that I could ship back some of the bulkier items that I won't need for Australia's warmer climate, plus it's only about a mile walk to where I need to be to start my surf tour on Monday. Otherwise I'd have to take a cab to the airport where their only FedEx drop-off is which doesn't open until 8:30am, then get back in time for my 10:00 departure. This way I can get it all taken care of and not waste too much time or money. The Oceanic Hostel. Nice, right?
So I drove here first thing to see if they had a vacancy for tonight, and they did. But, you know, there's a reason to worry a tad bit when the reception desk has a grate screen around it. It can't be that bad, I think to myself. I mainly go up to the room to use the bathroom, which wasn't that bad. Then I see the room. "Well," I think to myself, "just go out into the city for a while and you won't have to deal with it." So I walk down to the harbor to find out where my tour departs tomorrow. You know you're in a sketchy part of town when you have a place called Show Girls two blocks away. I was staying in the Auckland ghetto, no doubt about it. Convenience carries a heavy price. So I continued to the harbor, because being near the water fixes everything. I was somewhat saddened when I got down to the harbor and saw loads of crap floating in it, especially with how environmentally conscious of a country it is. But I quickly decided that I could be disgruntled by the past few days, or I could not let it spoil how great it's all been with a few exceptions. So I walked over to the i-site and I booked an afternoon of sailing on the NZL41. Before the departure, however, I went to the hostel and took in a few items that I wouldn't mind being stolen, but needed to get out of the car before I returned it.
Once out on the sailboat, the water did solve everything and make it better. I even got to get on the grinders and do a bit of steering. Quite a nice experience, and I think I was the only chick who tried her hand at grinding. Upon returning, I hurried back to the hostel, unloaded some more stuff, filled the car with gas, and was off to get the car and Sophia back to the rental place. I soon spoke to the guy at the front desk and told him about the chip and the crack. Even though I opted for the partial pay option for additional insurance coverage, it turned out that the cost for repairs was low enough that I didn't have to pay anything. Boy, you have no idea how relieved I was! I took a cab back to the harbor from the car hire, and sat outside with my newest addiction, a Chai latte, trying to avoid what I knew I'd eventually have to face. Around 5:45pm, I wobbled down the street with my backpack that has a larger girth than do I, and thought of how to better this situation. I got up to my room, and just looked at it. Disgusting. Absolutely disgusting. And I didn't even pay any less for here than I paid at other hostels! (Side note: I think I just killed a flea on me as I sit here typing this.) Anyhow, I sat (actually I stood; I have yet to actually sit on anything in there) in my room and tried to decide what to keep and what to send home. After about an hour of this, I realized that I had not actually eaten anything except for the latte and some left over red pepper and avocado since this morning. I immediately decided that in such a situation, a girl needs to go out. But first I had to make a trip to the grocery store. What did I get, you ask? Paper towels and disinfectant spray. The plus about staying in a place like this is that you'll likely not have any other roomies because everybody in town except for you knows better. So I retrun to my room, spray the bed linens, the door knobs, the carpet, and the pillow. Then, I cover the bed with paper towels and encase the pillow with the plastic bag from the market and cover it with paper towels as well. Ahhh, there we go, nice clean bed linens! And now I know I have to face something else. I have been out all day, in the heat and sun, sweating and getting dirty, and I must shower. It's not that I want to shower, but it would simply be unacceptable for me to go out like this. (As I sit here, I am reminded of another detail of this accomodation: the pipes moan and groan in angst with every flush or rinse of the hands in the sink. It sounds like a terrible tuba player.) Anyhow, I take with me my toiletries, shower flip-flops, the disinfectant spray, and the remaining paper towels because I refuse to take my towel in there and chance dropping it.
By this point, you might be thinking that I'm a spoiled, prissy girl who can't handle roughing it. Oh no, I can rough it just fine. I can be out in nature. I can deal with outdoor bugs. I even applied the five second rule to a toothbrush that fell on the bathroom floor a few nights ago at the camper park. But I wouldn't apply the five second rule to a hairbrush that fell on the floor here. If you call the need for simple hygeine and sanitary conditions being prissy, then a priss I am. Channel seven news would be all over this! Anyhow, I ventured down to the showers and found a new level of disgust. I sprayed down the shower and everything else I had to touch in there. I started out with it full blast, but quickly discovered that the pipes were starting to groan again, and that the water was pooling at my feet. Knowing that these showers likely doubled as a toilet, I turned the water to a mere trickle to let it all drain. Afterwards, upon returning to my room, I disinfected my shower shoes. Yes, it was that bad. Anyhow, my friend had suggested the Skytower, and I decided that in order to feel better, I might have to put on some nice clean clothes and go to a nice clean place, and have some nice clean fun (no stopping at Show Girls for me). So I did this, and I balanced out my day of oatmeal, avocado, pepper, and latte, with another latte and some raspberry tarts while enjoying a spectacular view of Auckland. You could see the lights of buildings and cars and business twinkling for miles around, out as far as the eye could see. And, ah, over there where the police lights are flashing, that's where my hostel is.
Well, I must be up early in the morning. Not just to be places, but to get out of places. There is plus to this place: It's not Hotel California, and I'll be able to check out in the morning. But what to do about the growing number of bug bites on me.....
I was getting annoyed with today's plans.
I decided that this was it and if I didn't get to the forest in a bit that I would turn back and head off to Auckland early. So I drove, and drove, and then started to get very tired. Of course I needed to heed the warnings that "Fatigue Kills", right? So I decided that if finding the Kauri (a local suggested I go to Coramandel rather than the northwest) was going to be more of a chore and make my day miserable, that it pretty much wasn't worth it. Don't get me wrong, I was all about seeing the Kauri, but I scrapped my initial itinerary in the beginning of the trip for such reasons as this. I was heading upwards towards a beach when it started to pour and I decided to turn back. On the way back, however, I stumbled upon a nice little waterfall walk. They don't seem to have as many trails and walks on the side of the road here as did the South Island, most likely because it's more populated here and there are other means for rest stops. So I pulled over and wandered down the trail. I'd quickly forgotten that some of the best parts of my travels weren't necessarily the ultimate destinations, but were all the little stops along the way that cut up the journey. Once I completed my walk, I got on the road and headed for Auckland.
So everything's going just fine as I'm driving along Highway 2 when, pink, another rock hits my windshield, this one leaving a nice 12 inch crack down the middle. This was certainly not an improvement to my day. So I just let God have it, and keep going. I arrived in Auckland, and immediately decided that I don't much fancy it here. Perhaps it was because when I got off the motorway and Sophia could not navigate me around roads that had been blocked off for a cycling race (damn cyclists--isn't it interesting how the little things that we enjoy so much can easily annoy us?), and I had to locate another motor park for my last night with the car. I finally arrive at a nice little camper park in an Auckland suburb and stay here the night. I got all my plans squared away by searching online and even tracked down a hostel near the post office so that I could ship back some of the bulkier items that I won't need for Australia's warmer climate, plus it's only about a mile walk to where I need to be to start my surf tour on Monday. Otherwise I'd have to take a cab to the airport where their only FedEx drop-off is which doesn't open until 8:30am, then get back in time for my 10:00 departure. This way I can get it all taken care of and not waste too much time or money. The Oceanic Hostel. Nice, right?
So I drove here first thing to see if they had a vacancy for tonight, and they did. But, you know, there's a reason to worry a tad bit when the reception desk has a grate screen around it. It can't be that bad, I think to myself. I mainly go up to the room to use the bathroom, which wasn't that bad. Then I see the room. "Well," I think to myself, "just go out into the city for a while and you won't have to deal with it." So I walk down to the harbor to find out where my tour departs tomorrow. You know you're in a sketchy part of town when you have a place called Show Girls two blocks away. I was staying in the Auckland ghetto, no doubt about it. Convenience carries a heavy price. So I continued to the harbor, because being near the water fixes everything. I was somewhat saddened when I got down to the harbor and saw loads of crap floating in it, especially with how environmentally conscious of a country it is. But I quickly decided that I could be disgruntled by the past few days, or I could not let it spoil how great it's all been with a few exceptions. So I walked over to the i-site and I booked an afternoon of sailing on the NZL41. Before the departure, however, I went to the hostel and took in a few items that I wouldn't mind being stolen, but needed to get out of the car before I returned it.
Once out on the sailboat, the water did solve everything and make it better. I even got to get on the grinders and do a bit of steering. Quite a nice experience, and I think I was the only chick who tried her hand at grinding. Upon returning, I hurried back to the hostel, unloaded some more stuff, filled the car with gas, and was off to get the car and Sophia back to the rental place. I soon spoke to the guy at the front desk and told him about the chip and the crack. Even though I opted for the partial pay option for additional insurance coverage, it turned out that the cost for repairs was low enough that I didn't have to pay anything. Boy, you have no idea how relieved I was! I took a cab back to the harbor from the car hire, and sat outside with my newest addiction, a Chai latte, trying to avoid what I knew I'd eventually have to face. Around 5:45pm, I wobbled down the street with my backpack that has a larger girth than do I, and thought of how to better this situation. I got up to my room, and just looked at it. Disgusting. Absolutely disgusting. And I didn't even pay any less for here than I paid at other hostels! (Side note: I think I just killed a flea on me as I sit here typing this.) Anyhow, I sat (actually I stood; I have yet to actually sit on anything in there) in my room and tried to decide what to keep and what to send home. After about an hour of this, I realized that I had not actually eaten anything except for the latte and some left over red pepper and avocado since this morning. I immediately decided that in such a situation, a girl needs to go out. But first I had to make a trip to the grocery store. What did I get, you ask? Paper towels and disinfectant spray. The plus about staying in a place like this is that you'll likely not have any other roomies because everybody in town except for you knows better. So I retrun to my room, spray the bed linens, the door knobs, the carpet, and the pillow. Then, I cover the bed with paper towels and encase the pillow with the plastic bag from the market and cover it with paper towels as well. Ahhh, there we go, nice clean bed linens! And now I know I have to face something else. I have been out all day, in the heat and sun, sweating and getting dirty, and I must shower. It's not that I want to shower, but it would simply be unacceptable for me to go out like this. (As I sit here, I am reminded of another detail of this accomodation: the pipes moan and groan in angst with every flush or rinse of the hands in the sink. It sounds like a terrible tuba player.) Anyhow, I take with me my toiletries, shower flip-flops, the disinfectant spray, and the remaining paper towels because I refuse to take my towel in there and chance dropping it.
By this point, you might be thinking that I'm a spoiled, prissy girl who can't handle roughing it. Oh no, I can rough it just fine. I can be out in nature. I can deal with outdoor bugs. I even applied the five second rule to a toothbrush that fell on the bathroom floor a few nights ago at the camper park. But I wouldn't apply the five second rule to a hairbrush that fell on the floor here. If you call the need for simple hygeine and sanitary conditions being prissy, then a priss I am. Channel seven news would be all over this! Anyhow, I ventured down to the showers and found a new level of disgust. I sprayed down the shower and everything else I had to touch in there. I started out with it full blast, but quickly discovered that the pipes were starting to groan again, and that the water was pooling at my feet. Knowing that these showers likely doubled as a toilet, I turned the water to a mere trickle to let it all drain. Afterwards, upon returning to my room, I disinfected my shower shoes. Yes, it was that bad. Anyhow, my friend had suggested the Skytower, and I decided that in order to feel better, I might have to put on some nice clean clothes and go to a nice clean place, and have some nice clean fun (no stopping at Show Girls for me). So I did this, and I balanced out my day of oatmeal, avocado, pepper, and latte, with another latte and some raspberry tarts while enjoying a spectacular view of Auckland. You could see the lights of buildings and cars and business twinkling for miles around, out as far as the eye could see. And, ah, over there where the police lights are flashing, that's where my hostel is.
Well, I must be up early in the morning. Not just to be places, but to get out of places. There is plus to this place: It's not Hotel California, and I'll be able to check out in the morning. But what to do about the growing number of bug bites on me.....
Raining On My Parade
I arrived in Wellington around 5:15pm on Thursday the 19th. It was a comfortable ride of about three hours, and the ferry service sure has it organized such that everybody who has a vehicle is at it and out of the ship by the time it reaches port. When I arrived, Sophia decided she was going to be difficult about thing and initially informed me that I had to drive over nine hours over the channel to the North Island. Honestly, I named her just so I could yell at her. Once I got on the road, I gave Jodie a call to see if she was around to meet up for the evening. Unfortunately she was on a 24 hour nursing shift, but James was home so she had me give him a call. I was in the city, terrified of the driving situation--one way streets, crazy lights, millions of roundabouts, confusing intersections--my nightmare come true. This being the case, I just followed Sophia's directions to a motor camp that I'd plugged into the system before I called Jodie and figured I'd ring up James on the way, but when I glanced at my phone ten minutes later, I noticed all of my bars had dwindled to nonexistence, so I had to turn around, and return to the city centre (pretty much what they call downtown everywhere here). Now about thirty minutes into being in Wellington, I got back into the city and finally got back my reception (curses at Vodafone!). I rang up James, and he told me that he was literally a two minutes drive from the port, and I told him that meant I would probably be there in twenty minutes. I plugged in the address into the GPS, and was pleasantly surprised to see the street I needed in the system. Unfortunately, when I make a number of wrong turns, stop at rest areas along the way, or take detours, Sophia becomes disgruntled with my inability to follow her exact directions and eventually tells me that I have arrived at my destination even when I know I'm miles away. This ended up being the case on my way to James and Jodie's place. I decided to swing into a gas station and ask a cab driver for some help. It's a bad thing when the cabbie isn't familiar with the street for which you're looking! He pulled out his map and compared it with a map that a patron had handed to me on the street. Upon doing so, we discovered that that particular road was not on the map. He showed me where I needed to be, but unfortunately he didn't show me where I was. I sort of figured it out, but ultimately asked a man while I was en route who showed me exactly the way to go (what with one-way streets and all). I FINALLY saw James about 40 minutes later. A self-fulfilled prophecy.
I met a few of his flatmates, and we hung out that night watching pretty much all American TV and noshing on some pizza. I intended on exploring Wellington in the morning (lots of museums and exhibits and the such), but it was pouring out so I decided to be on my way. On my way out, Jodie came home for a quick break, so we hung out for a few minutes and she told me about their soon to be adventure of cycling through Malaysia and working in the jungles of Borneo. I was on the road by about noon, and she was kind enough to give me directions to the easiest way to get onto the motorway. With rain coming down (nothing like it is in Florida though, but the primary risk is of rivers overflowing and flooding major roadways), I made my way north towards Lake Tuapo. I've had my car for about three weeks now, and I'm on my way, driving along at a decent pace but cautiously. During the time I've had the car, I've been on gravel roads, dirt roads, muddy roads, roads under construction that are being sealed with the awful chip seal that they have here (I'm sure it's an economic ploy to sell tires) and haven't had a single problem. What do you know, I'm going along and the road must have just been sealed with that awful chip seal and a series of oncoming cars and trucks fling multiple little rocks--pebbles, really--in my direction. This is not out of the ordinary as the woman at the rental place said not to worry about paint chippage on the front end of the car from this, but all of the rocks managed to hit the windshield. Of course, one of these manages to chip it. Bon of a sitch! I have two days left with the car, and I chip the windshield now. And what does my partial pay insurance policy say? That it covers everything BUT the windscreens and windows. The customer is fully responsible for these. Dammit! So, all that I can do is say a little prayer, and hope that my winshield that has been rained on and cleaned of bird excretions and dead bugs manages to get dirty again and cover up that one particular spot. Or hope that they just don't notice it when I return it to the shop.
I arrived in Lake Tuapo, and then decided to go on towards Rotarua since it was too late to do anything and I needed to be as far north as possible. During the drive, the surrounding land was covered with natural hot springs, with clouds of steam rushing upward into the sky all around. I saw a sign that said "Natural Springs Walk" and decided this might be an interesting thing to do on the way. I turned off the road. Sophia became annoyed with me. I headed up a dirt road turned to rock and mud from the recent rains. Even the surrounding rivers were nothing but a muddy brown color. I should have known, heading up the path, that I should probably have turned around when I saw the turnaround made by other visitors. The road up was bumpy and messy, and the car, I'm sure, was having an identity crisis of whether it should be a van or an SUV. I kept going, and there were no more turnarounds. I'd lost interest within about a minute of driving, but there was nowhere to go. This is what they do here. Some of these tourist attractions with hook you with a sign of interest, and then take you down an eternal unpaved road so that you cannot turn around once you've decided to not pursue the activity, but rather must continue on to the destination whereupon they assume you'll feel obligated to partake in the given activity. Well, seeing the time I had spent going up, I pulled a two-point (actually three) turn the first chance I got and continued on my way. Sophia continued to badger me as I decided to take the scenic route to Rotarua, so she took a little nap on sleep mode as I drove through the amazing scenery that had a cretacious feel to it with all of the surrounding pools in the country.
Arriving in Rotorua around 7:30 pm, I found this great little motor park that had a cafe AND thermal pools for just $14 for the night. Pools alone generally cost $10-$20 for a single visit, so this was quite a deal. I headed over to my campground, set up, and then decided to get dinner rather than make it. The simple chicken burger I ordered was excellent, with amazing presentation--they are an artsy country, so presentation seems to mean a lot to them, which is fine by me. I also tried a Red Lion which was a nice change from the Monteiths I'd been having. All the beers and ales I've tried have been pretty light, even those that aren't meant for summer. So after my meal, I decided to indulge in a Kiwi desert of pavlova, a sweet meringue cake served with fresh fruit and ice cream. Absolutely amazing, but so much that I couldn't finish the entire thing. This is definitely something I'm going to have to try making when I get back home. From here I decided to go to the pools before they closed, and met a few very friendly Kiwis and a couple from Colorado on their honeymoon who was motorcycling through the north island with them. I eventually went back to their cabin for a bit (another night of beer and pizza), and was given some suggestions for today. I have decided that with such little time remaining, I want to see the Kauri (or is it Cowry?--no idea) forest and then head to Auckland. Time (both in travels and on my clock here) is running out, so I'd best be on my way!
I met a few of his flatmates, and we hung out that night watching pretty much all American TV and noshing on some pizza. I intended on exploring Wellington in the morning (lots of museums and exhibits and the such), but it was pouring out so I decided to be on my way. On my way out, Jodie came home for a quick break, so we hung out for a few minutes and she told me about their soon to be adventure of cycling through Malaysia and working in the jungles of Borneo. I was on the road by about noon, and she was kind enough to give me directions to the easiest way to get onto the motorway. With rain coming down (nothing like it is in Florida though, but the primary risk is of rivers overflowing and flooding major roadways), I made my way north towards Lake Tuapo. I've had my car for about three weeks now, and I'm on my way, driving along at a decent pace but cautiously. During the time I've had the car, I've been on gravel roads, dirt roads, muddy roads, roads under construction that are being sealed with the awful chip seal that they have here (I'm sure it's an economic ploy to sell tires) and haven't had a single problem. What do you know, I'm going along and the road must have just been sealed with that awful chip seal and a series of oncoming cars and trucks fling multiple little rocks--pebbles, really--in my direction. This is not out of the ordinary as the woman at the rental place said not to worry about paint chippage on the front end of the car from this, but all of the rocks managed to hit the windshield. Of course, one of these manages to chip it. Bon of a sitch! I have two days left with the car, and I chip the windshield now. And what does my partial pay insurance policy say? That it covers everything BUT the windscreens and windows. The customer is fully responsible for these. Dammit! So, all that I can do is say a little prayer, and hope that my winshield that has been rained on and cleaned of bird excretions and dead bugs manages to get dirty again and cover up that one particular spot. Or hope that they just don't notice it when I return it to the shop.
I arrived in Lake Tuapo, and then decided to go on towards Rotarua since it was too late to do anything and I needed to be as far north as possible. During the drive, the surrounding land was covered with natural hot springs, with clouds of steam rushing upward into the sky all around. I saw a sign that said "Natural Springs Walk" and decided this might be an interesting thing to do on the way. I turned off the road. Sophia became annoyed with me. I headed up a dirt road turned to rock and mud from the recent rains. Even the surrounding rivers were nothing but a muddy brown color. I should have known, heading up the path, that I should probably have turned around when I saw the turnaround made by other visitors. The road up was bumpy and messy, and the car, I'm sure, was having an identity crisis of whether it should be a van or an SUV. I kept going, and there were no more turnarounds. I'd lost interest within about a minute of driving, but there was nowhere to go. This is what they do here. Some of these tourist attractions with hook you with a sign of interest, and then take you down an eternal unpaved road so that you cannot turn around once you've decided to not pursue the activity, but rather must continue on to the destination whereupon they assume you'll feel obligated to partake in the given activity. Well, seeing the time I had spent going up, I pulled a two-point (actually three) turn the first chance I got and continued on my way. Sophia continued to badger me as I decided to take the scenic route to Rotarua, so she took a little nap on sleep mode as I drove through the amazing scenery that had a cretacious feel to it with all of the surrounding pools in the country.
Arriving in Rotorua around 7:30 pm, I found this great little motor park that had a cafe AND thermal pools for just $14 for the night. Pools alone generally cost $10-$20 for a single visit, so this was quite a deal. I headed over to my campground, set up, and then decided to get dinner rather than make it. The simple chicken burger I ordered was excellent, with amazing presentation--they are an artsy country, so presentation seems to mean a lot to them, which is fine by me. I also tried a Red Lion which was a nice change from the Monteiths I'd been having. All the beers and ales I've tried have been pretty light, even those that aren't meant for summer. So after my meal, I decided to indulge in a Kiwi desert of pavlova, a sweet meringue cake served with fresh fruit and ice cream. Absolutely amazing, but so much that I couldn't finish the entire thing. This is definitely something I'm going to have to try making when I get back home. From here I decided to go to the pools before they closed, and met a few very friendly Kiwis and a couple from Colorado on their honeymoon who was motorcycling through the north island with them. I eventually went back to their cabin for a bit (another night of beer and pizza), and was given some suggestions for today. I have decided that with such little time remaining, I want to see the Kauri (or is it Cowry?--no idea) forest and then head to Auckland. Time (both in travels and on my clock here) is running out, so I'd best be on my way!
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
North Bound
First off, I cannot rave enough about the quality and price (well, considering the current exchange rate) of food. It is excellent--or at least the few places where I've dined.
After yesterday's post, I got on the road and headed to Abel Tasman. Sophia is clearly a Kiwi, because she decided to quit working for me about thirty minutes after I got back on the road. Fortunately the signs were well posted and I had no navigational problems. I slept in the parking lot of the National Park and awoke this morning to do a little bit of hiking. Initially I had planned to go via water taxi to a more remote portion of Abel Tasman, but out of convenience, time, and cost, I decided to just walk the first portion rather than take transportation to the more advertised areas. I walked 2.5 hours in forest, over trickling streams and little waterfalls, and alongside the ocean. On the way back, I stopped off at a little piece of heaven (Apple Tree Bay, I believe it was) where the sand is actually more of little pebbles, gravel really. It was nice to not have to deal with the sand factor. I swam in the aqua and extremely chilly waters (had to be in the sixties!) and then laid on the shore for about thirty or so minutes. I have been in NZ over two weeks now and am still pasty, so I did what people are warned against doing--I went sans sunscreen (which I've actually been doing all along, but haven't had the benefit of water to reflect the sun until today). Save for some on my face (Melaleuca sunscreen works great, btw. No allergic reactions and no blistering and burning where I use it), I let my skin soak up the sun. Fortunately this story does not end with me complaining about how crispy I am. It was just enough to get a good base going on in preparation for more rays next week. :-)
I finished up around 3 PM, and then drove a bit until I came across an i-site (basically it's a national travel agency that will arrange as much as they possibly can for you). I booked my ferry out of Picton to Wellington for tomorrow afternoon, and then headed off to Picton from where I am writing. I'm finally getting a weeks worth of laundry done and am so pleased! One of the things you grow to miss about home are free laundry (and not having to do it in a bathroom sink for it to be free) and hair dryers. I never used the hair dryer often at home, but when it gets in the forties or fifties at night, it comes in quite handy. That's all for now!
After yesterday's post, I got on the road and headed to Abel Tasman. Sophia is clearly a Kiwi, because she decided to quit working for me about thirty minutes after I got back on the road. Fortunately the signs were well posted and I had no navigational problems. I slept in the parking lot of the National Park and awoke this morning to do a little bit of hiking. Initially I had planned to go via water taxi to a more remote portion of Abel Tasman, but out of convenience, time, and cost, I decided to just walk the first portion rather than take transportation to the more advertised areas. I walked 2.5 hours in forest, over trickling streams and little waterfalls, and alongside the ocean. On the way back, I stopped off at a little piece of heaven (Apple Tree Bay, I believe it was) where the sand is actually more of little pebbles, gravel really. It was nice to not have to deal with the sand factor. I swam in the aqua and extremely chilly waters (had to be in the sixties!) and then laid on the shore for about thirty or so minutes. I have been in NZ over two weeks now and am still pasty, so I did what people are warned against doing--I went sans sunscreen (which I've actually been doing all along, but haven't had the benefit of water to reflect the sun until today). Save for some on my face (Melaleuca sunscreen works great, btw. No allergic reactions and no blistering and burning where I use it), I let my skin soak up the sun. Fortunately this story does not end with me complaining about how crispy I am. It was just enough to get a good base going on in preparation for more rays next week. :-)
I finished up around 3 PM, and then drove a bit until I came across an i-site (basically it's a national travel agency that will arrange as much as they possibly can for you). I booked my ferry out of Picton to Wellington for tomorrow afternoon, and then headed off to Picton from where I am writing. I'm finally getting a weeks worth of laundry done and am so pleased! One of the things you grow to miss about home are free laundry (and not having to do it in a bathroom sink for it to be free) and hair dryers. I never used the hair dryer often at home, but when it gets in the forties or fifties at night, it comes in quite handy. That's all for now!
Monday, February 16, 2009
Playing Catch-Up
I'm sitting in a Cafe in some small town right now, waiting to be served my meal, and then will be off again, but thought I'd try to catch you up in the mean time. It will likely not be in chronological order, but I'll do my best to work backwards from today to when I last posted.
So as I already told you, I'm sitting in a Cafe and just finished an hour plus jetboating tour. I learned a little history on jetboating, such as it was invented by an NZ farmer, and is the design behind waverunners and other such marine vessels that use water as a means of propulsion. I actually stumbled upon the jetboating tour on my way over to Punakaiki back on the West Coast, as I've zig-zagged my way around the South Island. When I saw the sign yesterday, I decided that if I was low on time, I would forgo the kayaking in Punakaiki and go with the jetboat ride on the way back....when I was passing through Queenstown on the return from Milford Sound, it was about 7pm, and I was not up to taking another day off just to jetboat. So anyhow, after some snooping around this morning and spending a little time on the beach and on a brief trail in Punakaiki, I got back on the road and came across the jetboating company where I had to wait about an hour and a half for the next ride, but I thought it was well worth it :-) The boat is capable of going up to 100kph in as little as 10cm of water, and if my conversions are correct, that's about 62mph in about 4 inches of water. Wow!
Last night I found myself sitting in a little tavern in Punakaiki for my first purchased meal since the fish n chips that I had after my Banks Peninsula tramp. I could smell the food as I walked back from a little exploring of the pancake rocks (after which Punakaiki is named) and decided that I would not be cooking for myself if the tavern was still open. I arrived ten minutes before ordering ended, and after trying the one in Akaroa, asked the bartender if he had a light summer ale and he presented to me a light ale made with ginger and honey that bore a pleasing resemblance to ginger-ale. As I sipped my ale and waited for my Puni fish burger (it was delicious and humongous!), I tried to figure out the game of rugby just by watching. I'm still in the dark.
When I last wrote, I had just finished kayaking Milford Sound. On my way out, I picked up a Brit whose motorcycle's tire went flat and drove him back to the lodge, and then to his bike. Since Judith the German, I will only pick up temporary strays--no overnights! I then began my mad dash back to the East Coast as the nephew of a friend wanted me to try to be in Nelson--a 16 hour drive--by the next evening. Not sure what to do, and without any cellular reception, I initially made my way Queenstown, which I immediately left upon arrival because I figured I'd have to spend an entire extra day there just to do the boat ride. I twas nearing 9pm, so I fueled up, and headed back to Oamaru again to stay the night on the beach. On the drive over, the clouds cleared the sky like a curtain being pulled back, and introduced bit by bit the many stars as they took the stage against a navy sky. I kept driving and driving, dividing my attention between the winding road and the stars. Upon turning a corner and coming down a mountain road, a yellow 3/4 moon shone, reflecting on the lake beside the road. If you haven't realized it by now, I have an obsession with the moon, sun, and stars. Anybody who knows me really well knows just how seriously I can take it. So I stopped on the side of the road, and made my best attempt to capture the moment. Not much justice was done, but that's pretty much always the case when you take a picture. After hours of driving, I pulled into my spot for the night at about 12:45 am: a cliff overlooking the beach below.
Then next morning, Saturday, I awoke around 9am. The notion of losing a few pounds as a result of decreased funds for food--don't think it's working. After a nice little breakfast whipped up with my handy gas stove, I sped off to CHC since that was the only known location that my phone worked. Taking the "scenic route", a three hour drive took about five, while passing through mountains on one side and farmland, plains, and ocean on the other, I also passed through a herd of sheep in the middle of the road (I got not free dinner out of this bit), and drove alongside some serious cyclist for about 15 miles who were in a race along a country road. I revisited the Botanic Gardens as I sipped a Chai latte and checked my voicemail. After finding out that the mother of the guy in Nelson had a bed made up for me, I felt kind of obligated to go, so I headed up that way and made it to Pelorus (I think that was the name) National Park just outside of Blenheim, a city that was the closest thing to Boca Raton that I have seen since I got here. I rolled in around 10:30pm, after requesting that God find me a spot as I didn't feel right spending the night alongside the road practically in somebody's vineyard as I was in "wine country". The park was a nice little gem, and I started the next day with a refreshing shower, a double scoop of ice cream (one scoop rum raisin, one scoop butterscotch), and a 30 minute trail walk. I then made my way to Nelson, where I discovered that my phone worked, but only in about a square mile vicinity.
After a bit of trying, I finally got in contact with the people at whose home I'd be staying, and we spent the afternoon at the beach as that was a "touristy thing" to do, so said by my host--I thought we were going to see Nelson Lake. Oh well. Unfortunately, this little side trip seemed to be probably one of the regrettable moments of the trip so far. The ran a bit of a side business as a home stay for travelers, and it seemed just a bit impersonal--I haven't learned yet to please myself rather than others, and not feel bad for doing this. This trend followed me through the afternoon when I went to Nelson Lake rather than Abel Tasman as planned, with some of the housemates who weren't what I deemed prime company once we were on our way. But this was all remedied when I arrived a few hours later in Punakaiki and was greeted by some absolutely amazing scenery! The beach makes everything better! I spent the evening checking out the pancake rocks, and what would have been the blowhole had it been high tide. What spectacular views!
Now I'm en route to Abel Tasman for either a walk or kayak tomorrow, and then off to catch the ferry to the North Island where I'll explore for a few more days until I do my surf trip. Food's here, so that's all for now!
So as I already told you, I'm sitting in a Cafe and just finished an hour plus jetboating tour. I learned a little history on jetboating, such as it was invented by an NZ farmer, and is the design behind waverunners and other such marine vessels that use water as a means of propulsion. I actually stumbled upon the jetboating tour on my way over to Punakaiki back on the West Coast, as I've zig-zagged my way around the South Island. When I saw the sign yesterday, I decided that if I was low on time, I would forgo the kayaking in Punakaiki and go with the jetboat ride on the way back....when I was passing through Queenstown on the return from Milford Sound, it was about 7pm, and I was not up to taking another day off just to jetboat. So anyhow, after some snooping around this morning and spending a little time on the beach and on a brief trail in Punakaiki, I got back on the road and came across the jetboating company where I had to wait about an hour and a half for the next ride, but I thought it was well worth it :-) The boat is capable of going up to 100kph in as little as 10cm of water, and if my conversions are correct, that's about 62mph in about 4 inches of water. Wow!
Last night I found myself sitting in a little tavern in Punakaiki for my first purchased meal since the fish n chips that I had after my Banks Peninsula tramp. I could smell the food as I walked back from a little exploring of the pancake rocks (after which Punakaiki is named) and decided that I would not be cooking for myself if the tavern was still open. I arrived ten minutes before ordering ended, and after trying the one in Akaroa, asked the bartender if he had a light summer ale and he presented to me a light ale made with ginger and honey that bore a pleasing resemblance to ginger-ale. As I sipped my ale and waited for my Puni fish burger (it was delicious and humongous!), I tried to figure out the game of rugby just by watching. I'm still in the dark.
When I last wrote, I had just finished kayaking Milford Sound. On my way out, I picked up a Brit whose motorcycle's tire went flat and drove him back to the lodge, and then to his bike. Since Judith the German, I will only pick up temporary strays--no overnights! I then began my mad dash back to the East Coast as the nephew of a friend wanted me to try to be in Nelson--a 16 hour drive--by the next evening. Not sure what to do, and without any cellular reception, I initially made my way Queenstown, which I immediately left upon arrival because I figured I'd have to spend an entire extra day there just to do the boat ride. I twas nearing 9pm, so I fueled up, and headed back to Oamaru again to stay the night on the beach. On the drive over, the clouds cleared the sky like a curtain being pulled back, and introduced bit by bit the many stars as they took the stage against a navy sky. I kept driving and driving, dividing my attention between the winding road and the stars. Upon turning a corner and coming down a mountain road, a yellow 3/4 moon shone, reflecting on the lake beside the road. If you haven't realized it by now, I have an obsession with the moon, sun, and stars. Anybody who knows me really well knows just how seriously I can take it. So I stopped on the side of the road, and made my best attempt to capture the moment. Not much justice was done, but that's pretty much always the case when you take a picture. After hours of driving, I pulled into my spot for the night at about 12:45 am: a cliff overlooking the beach below.
Then next morning, Saturday, I awoke around 9am. The notion of losing a few pounds as a result of decreased funds for food--don't think it's working. After a nice little breakfast whipped up with my handy gas stove, I sped off to CHC since that was the only known location that my phone worked. Taking the "scenic route", a three hour drive took about five, while passing through mountains on one side and farmland, plains, and ocean on the other, I also passed through a herd of sheep in the middle of the road (I got not free dinner out of this bit), and drove alongside some serious cyclist for about 15 miles who were in a race along a country road. I revisited the Botanic Gardens as I sipped a Chai latte and checked my voicemail. After finding out that the mother of the guy in Nelson had a bed made up for me, I felt kind of obligated to go, so I headed up that way and made it to Pelorus (I think that was the name) National Park just outside of Blenheim, a city that was the closest thing to Boca Raton that I have seen since I got here. I rolled in around 10:30pm, after requesting that God find me a spot as I didn't feel right spending the night alongside the road practically in somebody's vineyard as I was in "wine country". The park was a nice little gem, and I started the next day with a refreshing shower, a double scoop of ice cream (one scoop rum raisin, one scoop butterscotch), and a 30 minute trail walk. I then made my way to Nelson, where I discovered that my phone worked, but only in about a square mile vicinity.
After a bit of trying, I finally got in contact with the people at whose home I'd be staying, and we spent the afternoon at the beach as that was a "touristy thing" to do, so said by my host--I thought we were going to see Nelson Lake. Oh well. Unfortunately, this little side trip seemed to be probably one of the regrettable moments of the trip so far. The ran a bit of a side business as a home stay for travelers, and it seemed just a bit impersonal--I haven't learned yet to please myself rather than others, and not feel bad for doing this. This trend followed me through the afternoon when I went to Nelson Lake rather than Abel Tasman as planned, with some of the housemates who weren't what I deemed prime company once we were on our way. But this was all remedied when I arrived a few hours later in Punakaiki and was greeted by some absolutely amazing scenery! The beach makes everything better! I spent the evening checking out the pancake rocks, and what would have been the blowhole had it been high tide. What spectacular views!
Now I'm en route to Abel Tasman for either a walk or kayak tomorrow, and then off to catch the ferry to the North Island where I'll explore for a few more days until I do my surf trip. Food's here, so that's all for now!
Thursday, February 12, 2009
Sleeping Around
Please, get your minds out of the gutter! After staying in Oamaru for the night, I was successful in my search for penguins (and seals!) then next day. I ended up driving through Dunedin, not stopping for a combination of fear and disinterest of big cities despite my GPS (whom I named Sophia), and headed south. I have resloved to not worry about finding places to stay along the way, and simply stop in where I please. As I entered into Papatowi (sp again), "Where the river meets the ocean", I decided that this was where I definitely wanted to stay the night. Unfortunately, the first two spots were not for camping, and the second one, a breathtaking view of the ocean below, seemed a little too conspicuous. I proceeded down and came upon a turn-off to a beach. After discovering other campers here (and truly upsetting Sophia for being off course to the point of her finally giving up on telling me that my "vehicle was going the wrong way" and just telling me that I had reached my destination), I parked my little orange van and made my way to the beach.
What did I find? Absolute paradise! I could have lived happily in a 400 square foot shack for the rest of my life. It was vast, beautiful beach with a little stream of freshwater trickling into the ocean from a source that I eventually investigated. I tested out my ankle and knees with a brief run on the solid shoreline--something only I would do to see if they were better--and found that it didn't aggravate my knees (so evidently I should simply run all the time rather than walk). Anyhow, I stayed here the night, but some chilly morning rains deterred me from my initial plans of going for a swim in the crashing surf first thing in the morning. Instead, I made breakfast and headed off again but didn't get very far. Just a few minutes down the road, I came to an inviting sign for the Cathedral Caves listing the tide times and track availibility. Seeing that I wouldn't necessarily get the opportunity to explore it again, I pulled over and hopped out. NZ$5 got me on the track, and it was about a 20 minute stroll down a declining forest path to the beach where I was directed to the caves 300 meters down the beach. Entering the first cave, it is clear why they are called the Cathedral Caves as it was very tall and wide with vaulted "ceilings". Absolutely magnificent! I wandered through it, and moved on to the next one which was extremely narrow and let in such little light that I used my camera just to find my way around. It was a little too reminiscent of Tom Sawyer and Becky in the cave, so I went against my natural inclinations to continue, and turned before I regretted my curiosity. I continued on, cave after cave for about six or seven caves.
After about an hour of exploring, I turned back to set off again. Walking along the shoreline in my Columbia pants and orange fleece vest, I notice a group of four bundled individuals looking my direction who then shouted "Lisa!" and came running in my direction, greeting me with a friendly hug that nearly toppled me over. It was the two James's (Catherine's gonna hate my grammar here, I know it!), Jodie, and Kate, the three Kiwis and the Brit, respectively, from the camp ground and Puzzling Place. After catching up and discovering that they were only a few minutes down the road the night before, I headed back off, but first stopped at Curio Bay to view the dolphins and seals (actually, one territorial seal who held up traffic) at the suggestion of my new mates. The Catlins were an absolutely spectacular drive, filled with little walks and plenty of scenery. From here, I headed into Invercargill where I signed up for my kayaking tour in Milford Sounds, which Sophia told me was a 10 hour drive but turned out to be only about five or so, thank God! I truly upset her as I took multiple detours on the way, and her little map often showed me driving off the road, but alongside it as she prompted me to "turn around" as my vehicle was "going the wrong direction".
Once at Milford Lodge, I checked to see if there were any spaces available, but they were absoltuely booked, so I headed back down the winding road when I was approached by a girl who needed a ride. A German hitch hiker who had waaay more luggage than I, including an admitted 5 kg of books and her guitar, had found herself stranded as she wanted to go to the glaciers, but her ride was going to the lodge. I told her that I could give her a short ride, but I was camping in Milford so that I could kayak in the morning. Once she got in the car it began to rain, so I felt obligated to offer her to spend the night in the back of the car. I try to be nice, people, I really do. But can I tell you how annoyed I was that she was already acquainted with my type of vehicle, knew that there was a gas stove (inconveniently buried) and wanted her hot soup and tea? And when I was ready to go to sleep at 10 pm since I had to be up the mountain, a 45 minute drive, by 7:45 the next morning, she said she couldn't fall asleep without reading first. And let's not leave out that she was insistent on not killing the moths and flies that were attracted to the light because they didn't know any better. Above all was her snoring that kept me up most the night--probably why you are getting a taste of grumpy Lisa right now. I have decided to be more discerning with strays, or not take them at all. However, what made all that better was the absolutely amazing kayaking tour that I took through the sounds this morning! Totally worth the fuss, and boasting some awesome scenery. Of course I get to the best part of the last 24 hours and my clock has but a minute left after contributing $7! Well, I'm off to who knows where, except that it's north somewhere. Til next time!
What did I find? Absolute paradise! I could have lived happily in a 400 square foot shack for the rest of my life. It was vast, beautiful beach with a little stream of freshwater trickling into the ocean from a source that I eventually investigated. I tested out my ankle and knees with a brief run on the solid shoreline--something only I would do to see if they were better--and found that it didn't aggravate my knees (so evidently I should simply run all the time rather than walk). Anyhow, I stayed here the night, but some chilly morning rains deterred me from my initial plans of going for a swim in the crashing surf first thing in the morning. Instead, I made breakfast and headed off again but didn't get very far. Just a few minutes down the road, I came to an inviting sign for the Cathedral Caves listing the tide times and track availibility. Seeing that I wouldn't necessarily get the opportunity to explore it again, I pulled over and hopped out. NZ$5 got me on the track, and it was about a 20 minute stroll down a declining forest path to the beach where I was directed to the caves 300 meters down the beach. Entering the first cave, it is clear why they are called the Cathedral Caves as it was very tall and wide with vaulted "ceilings". Absolutely magnificent! I wandered through it, and moved on to the next one which was extremely narrow and let in such little light that I used my camera just to find my way around. It was a little too reminiscent of Tom Sawyer and Becky in the cave, so I went against my natural inclinations to continue, and turned before I regretted my curiosity. I continued on, cave after cave for about six or seven caves.
After about an hour of exploring, I turned back to set off again. Walking along the shoreline in my Columbia pants and orange fleece vest, I notice a group of four bundled individuals looking my direction who then shouted "Lisa!" and came running in my direction, greeting me with a friendly hug that nearly toppled me over. It was the two James's (Catherine's gonna hate my grammar here, I know it!), Jodie, and Kate, the three Kiwis and the Brit, respectively, from the camp ground and Puzzling Place. After catching up and discovering that they were only a few minutes down the road the night before, I headed back off, but first stopped at Curio Bay to view the dolphins and seals (actually, one territorial seal who held up traffic) at the suggestion of my new mates. The Catlins were an absolutely spectacular drive, filled with little walks and plenty of scenery. From here, I headed into Invercargill where I signed up for my kayaking tour in Milford Sounds, which Sophia told me was a 10 hour drive but turned out to be only about five or so, thank God! I truly upset her as I took multiple detours on the way, and her little map often showed me driving off the road, but alongside it as she prompted me to "turn around" as my vehicle was "going the wrong direction".
Once at Milford Lodge, I checked to see if there were any spaces available, but they were absoltuely booked, so I headed back down the winding road when I was approached by a girl who needed a ride. A German hitch hiker who had waaay more luggage than I, including an admitted 5 kg of books and her guitar, had found herself stranded as she wanted to go to the glaciers, but her ride was going to the lodge. I told her that I could give her a short ride, but I was camping in Milford so that I could kayak in the morning. Once she got in the car it began to rain, so I felt obligated to offer her to spend the night in the back of the car. I try to be nice, people, I really do. But can I tell you how annoyed I was that she was already acquainted with my type of vehicle, knew that there was a gas stove (inconveniently buried) and wanted her hot soup and tea? And when I was ready to go to sleep at 10 pm since I had to be up the mountain, a 45 minute drive, by 7:45 the next morning, she said she couldn't fall asleep without reading first. And let's not leave out that she was insistent on not killing the moths and flies that were attracted to the light because they didn't know any better. Above all was her snoring that kept me up most the night--probably why you are getting a taste of grumpy Lisa right now. I have decided to be more discerning with strays, or not take them at all. However, what made all that better was the absolutely amazing kayaking tour that I took through the sounds this morning! Totally worth the fuss, and boasting some awesome scenery. Of course I get to the best part of the last 24 hours and my clock has but a minute left after contributing $7! Well, I'm off to who knows where, except that it's north somewhere. Til next time!
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Penguins!
I departed Wanaka yesterday afternoon, and was on the road a good 40 minutes when I realized that I needed to fill my gas tank. With filling stations being as unpredictable as they are in many parts, I turned around, headed back to town, and fueled up my orange little van. On my way out, I realized how late it would be before I got to Te Aunua (sp?), and decided to head back to the east coast to explore the penguins. I went in search of the yellow eyed ones last night, but could not find any. However, there is a reserve for blue penguins (they are under a foot tall), and I went there for a 9 pm showing. No cameras were allowed as they are sensitive to the light, but sodium lighting was used (like sea turtles, they can't see certain light spectrums) for our viewing pleasure. They were so entertaining to watch as they approached their little nests, some youngsters waiting eagerly for mom or dad to bring back some food (the parents share the task of warming eggs and feeding until they are mature enough to fend for themselves). There was a seal on the rocks, and whenever it moved, many of the penguins would retreat.
TodayI'm off to see what other species of penguins I can find, and will try to get some pictures (although it's difficult for me to upload them while I'm away. My time is up, so I must go. Bye!
TodayI'm off to see what other species of penguins I can find, and will try to get some pictures (although it's difficult for me to upload them while I'm away. My time is up, so I must go. Bye!
Monday, February 9, 2009
Always In Motion
Having been in NZ for over a week now, there is something that I've noticed and learned about this country that I did not previously realize. I had no idea this was such an outdoor oriented country. It seems like everybody is outside doing one thing or another. Regardless of age, shape, or size, they are all about anything that incorporates adventure into athleticism. I see fifty-something women getting into some serious mountain biking, teenagers skydiving, guys in their twenties making a weekend of cycling 150K to and from a campsite. Even in the most remote areas, I regularly see people running laps around their farm property or in full triathlete gear running besides the highway. Maybe it's the fact that NZ is an adventure capital to many--a detail of which I was unaware before I arrived. Bungee jumping originated in Queenstown, jetboats were created here, and pastimes of residents are often the more extreme sports, from paragliding and windsurfing to snow boarding and endurance runs. Even in a sleepy dot on the map town whose main street was only three blocks, the first sign I noticed when rolling through was one pointing to the skate park.
Coming from a background in nutrition, this drew my attention to a detail that is often neglected in the states. Activity for the experience and not just (or even) the physical or physiological benefits. Men with lovehandles and women with extra padding are capable of keeping a very good running pace. They could care less about how they look in their exercise gear, although their are outdoor apparel stores everywhere. People take their kayaks out to the lake or beach before work, and go for a run and a swim in the early evening. Or their work involves such activities. I was camping with a Kiwi the other night who works at a summer camp in MA during the summers, and his campers refused to believe that it was acceptable to teach kayaking as a profession--they wanted to know what his real job was. It makes sense to build jobs around the present landscape rather than to landscape to create jobs, especially in a country of such diverse scenery.
Well, I'm going to go ice my ankle now. I twisted it jumping off rocks into the river just after I completed a river surfing session. ;-)
Coming from a background in nutrition, this drew my attention to a detail that is often neglected in the states. Activity for the experience and not just (or even) the physical or physiological benefits. Men with lovehandles and women with extra padding are capable of keeping a very good running pace. They could care less about how they look in their exercise gear, although their are outdoor apparel stores everywhere. People take their kayaks out to the lake or beach before work, and go for a run and a swim in the early evening. Or their work involves such activities. I was camping with a Kiwi the other night who works at a summer camp in MA during the summers, and his campers refused to believe that it was acceptable to teach kayaking as a profession--they wanted to know what his real job was. It makes sense to build jobs around the present landscape rather than to landscape to create jobs, especially in a country of such diverse scenery.
Well, I'm going to go ice my ankle now. I twisted it jumping off rocks into the river just after I completed a river surfing session. ;-)
Saturday, February 7, 2009
On The Road Again
So I'm sitting here on the beach in Greymouth as I write this (not type--I decided to type after writing since I have to pay a dollar per 10 minutes for computer use). It was quite grey yesterday when I arrived and I couldn't help but wonder if this minor detail was pertinent to the name of the city or was mere coincidence. Well it has cleared up nicely this morning, and I am contemplating putting off my departure for the glaciers by about an hour so I can spend some quality time roaming the beach (it has a smooth rock and dark sand section with lots of driftwood on both). The waves seemed to break nicely here yesterday, but there's a decent groundswell here this morning from the weather that came through last night.
Anyhow, my apologies for being away and not contributing for the last few days. No travelling mate ase of yet, and I am not too sure that I'd want one at this point--at least not for full duration of the remainder of my stay. I have met plenty of nice people along the way, however. I'm at my half-way point for the visit to the South Island (crazy, right?!), and I made some major revisions to my itinerary. I have none. Okay, well, I still have the same list of places and things to do, but I'm not doing them in that order. What provoked this sudden (impulsive?) behavior was me driving back from Akaroa (my knees have still not recovered, and this also contributed to the revision) and had intended on going to see the Sign of the Kiwi outside of Christchurch (CHC). So I have my map, and my intended address, and the route all highlighted, and I'm following the road signs when it happens--a roundabout! I frantically search the exit options for the location I need, but it's nowhere to be found; only the immediate cities or places in between my current position and the desired destination. I glance at the map, hesitating to enter the roundabout from Hell. "Well, that vicinity is close to where I want to be, so that could be it. But the first exit is also on the way. Crap!" Take this scenario and repeat it about half a dozen times. I ultimately did stop for directions, but that honestly was no help. So here I am, driving around in the car, on the verge or a panic attack. Having a panic attack is going to accomplish nothing, as I've figured out over the years, and is definitely not a recurring experience that I want to have on my trip. So I manage to navigate my way back to CHC just fine, I drive tot he car rental service, and tell the woman (the same woman who told me that GPS would be a waste of money that would be better used towards beer and biscuits, neither of which she seemed to be missing) that I wanted the GPS. Once I got it and figured out how to use it, a weight was lifted off my shoulders! No hesitation! Freedom! All of this took place on Wednesday. So I headed back to the hostel that I'd stayed the first night in CHC, did some grocery shopping (my comfort activity--really, it totally settles my nereves), and decided to play catch-up the next day.
I woke up bright and early on Thursday and visited the Botanic Gardens, Canterbury Museum, and the Cathedral. I also swung by Vodafone (their primary cell phone provider) and got a new SIM card which has rendered itself useless since there's only reception in the big cities in NZ. Thus far, that is CHC. (So glad I didn't get the iPhone before I left.) Buying SIM cards here can be like a drug deal should you wander into any convenience store that advertises them. They're taped to a piece of paper with an accompanying phone number and the clerk will only take sach. Credit? Sorry, no deal. Anyhow, it looks like my uncle might get a SIM card from me should I not get any takers on it before my departure. After all this, I drove to Willowsprings Reserve, or something to that effect, to see the Ko Tane experience, which is an encounter with the traditional Maori culture. Think Mai Kai less the drinks and dinner and replaced with an animal reserve for my Florida readers. I then departed CHC for Kaikoura to stay the night.
Something I have noticed about NZ is that they are very laconic with their road signs. I'm driving on the motorway (interstate) to Kaikoura at about 7:30 PM or so (projected arrival of 10 PM) and I start seeing road signs. Not billboards, but actual roadsigns with various messages like the ones you see on the turnpike. A steaming cup of coffe that said "Driver Reviver" and pointed towards some restaurants. The next gave me a laugh with dashes that were separated and eventually came together that instructed "Merge like a zipper". But I laughed hardest when I saw "Tired Drivers Die" with a car rolling off the road and "ZZZZZ" coming from it. I have seen others since, such as "Fatigue kills. Don't drive tired." and "Drive sober. Don't become extinct." Some strong (and often entertaining) messages.
I arrived in Kaikour just before 10 PM. The thing about NZ is that everything but the bars close between 5 and 8 PM, and unfortunately this included the camper park where I intended to stay the night. Driving along the coast, I noticed some pretty amazing spots overlooking the ocean, and keeping in mind that "Tired drivers die" as my eyes began to grow weary, I turned back and drove 15 K to a spot across from a motel and a few hundred yards from another parked van. In the morning, I dorve to Seal Bach to see the seals sun themeselves on the rocks, but I think I got there a little early as there were none on the rocks and just one was flying solo in the water. Little guy knows how to do it right ;-). I skipped Waipara as wine tasting wasn't a priority and I'm not sure how I'd react with allergies and all. With the intentions of heading straight for Greymouth on Friday, I started west but decided to stop in Hamner Springs, a quaint little mountain town full of shopping andn activities, but boasting natural hot sulfer springs. After a little shopping (can you believe that I went leisure shopping?) I spent about 2 hours in the pools in hopes they would ease my aching knees. I met a handful of nice people here, some Americans, others natives.
Saturday morning, I left the Springs and headed towards Greymouth finally. I stopped at Lewis Pass (a 5-7 day hike) and walked the trail a bit until my knees couldn't handle anymore, which was about 45 minutes one way, but still got some excellent scenery. I continued on to Reefton where I stopped for some Rum Raisin ice cream (sooooo good!) and got into Greymouth around 4 PM yesterday. Today I head south and will hopefull be able to check out the glaciers. Time is running out on my clock, so that's all for now!
Anyhow, my apologies for being away and not contributing for the last few days. No travelling mate ase of yet, and I am not too sure that I'd want one at this point--at least not for full duration of the remainder of my stay. I have met plenty of nice people along the way, however. I'm at my half-way point for the visit to the South Island (crazy, right?!), and I made some major revisions to my itinerary. I have none. Okay, well, I still have the same list of places and things to do, but I'm not doing them in that order. What provoked this sudden (impulsive?) behavior was me driving back from Akaroa (my knees have still not recovered, and this also contributed to the revision) and had intended on going to see the Sign of the Kiwi outside of Christchurch (CHC). So I have my map, and my intended address, and the route all highlighted, and I'm following the road signs when it happens--a roundabout! I frantically search the exit options for the location I need, but it's nowhere to be found; only the immediate cities or places in between my current position and the desired destination. I glance at the map, hesitating to enter the roundabout from Hell. "Well, that vicinity is close to where I want to be, so that could be it. But the first exit is also on the way. Crap!" Take this scenario and repeat it about half a dozen times. I ultimately did stop for directions, but that honestly was no help. So here I am, driving around in the car, on the verge or a panic attack. Having a panic attack is going to accomplish nothing, as I've figured out over the years, and is definitely not a recurring experience that I want to have on my trip. So I manage to navigate my way back to CHC just fine, I drive tot he car rental service, and tell the woman (the same woman who told me that GPS would be a waste of money that would be better used towards beer and biscuits, neither of which she seemed to be missing) that I wanted the GPS. Once I got it and figured out how to use it, a weight was lifted off my shoulders! No hesitation! Freedom! All of this took place on Wednesday. So I headed back to the hostel that I'd stayed the first night in CHC, did some grocery shopping (my comfort activity--really, it totally settles my nereves), and decided to play catch-up the next day.
I woke up bright and early on Thursday and visited the Botanic Gardens, Canterbury Museum, and the Cathedral. I also swung by Vodafone (their primary cell phone provider) and got a new SIM card which has rendered itself useless since there's only reception in the big cities in NZ. Thus far, that is CHC. (So glad I didn't get the iPhone before I left.) Buying SIM cards here can be like a drug deal should you wander into any convenience store that advertises them. They're taped to a piece of paper with an accompanying phone number and the clerk will only take sach. Credit? Sorry, no deal. Anyhow, it looks like my uncle might get a SIM card from me should I not get any takers on it before my departure. After all this, I drove to Willowsprings Reserve, or something to that effect, to see the Ko Tane experience, which is an encounter with the traditional Maori culture. Think Mai Kai less the drinks and dinner and replaced with an animal reserve for my Florida readers. I then departed CHC for Kaikoura to stay the night.
Something I have noticed about NZ is that they are very laconic with their road signs. I'm driving on the motorway (interstate) to Kaikoura at about 7:30 PM or so (projected arrival of 10 PM) and I start seeing road signs. Not billboards, but actual roadsigns with various messages like the ones you see on the turnpike. A steaming cup of coffe that said "Driver Reviver" and pointed towards some restaurants. The next gave me a laugh with dashes that were separated and eventually came together that instructed "Merge like a zipper". But I laughed hardest when I saw "Tired Drivers Die" with a car rolling off the road and "ZZZZZ" coming from it. I have seen others since, such as "Fatigue kills. Don't drive tired." and "Drive sober. Don't become extinct." Some strong (and often entertaining) messages.
I arrived in Kaikour just before 10 PM. The thing about NZ is that everything but the bars close between 5 and 8 PM, and unfortunately this included the camper park where I intended to stay the night. Driving along the coast, I noticed some pretty amazing spots overlooking the ocean, and keeping in mind that "Tired drivers die" as my eyes began to grow weary, I turned back and drove 15 K to a spot across from a motel and a few hundred yards from another parked van. In the morning, I dorve to Seal Bach to see the seals sun themeselves on the rocks, but I think I got there a little early as there were none on the rocks and just one was flying solo in the water. Little guy knows how to do it right ;-). I skipped Waipara as wine tasting wasn't a priority and I'm not sure how I'd react with allergies and all. With the intentions of heading straight for Greymouth on Friday, I started west but decided to stop in Hamner Springs, a quaint little mountain town full of shopping andn activities, but boasting natural hot sulfer springs. After a little shopping (can you believe that I went leisure shopping?) I spent about 2 hours in the pools in hopes they would ease my aching knees. I met a handful of nice people here, some Americans, others natives.
Saturday morning, I left the Springs and headed towards Greymouth finally. I stopped at Lewis Pass (a 5-7 day hike) and walked the trail a bit until my knees couldn't handle anymore, which was about 45 minutes one way, but still got some excellent scenery. I continued on to Reefton where I stopped for some Rum Raisin ice cream (sooooo good!) and got into Greymouth around 4 PM yesterday. Today I head south and will hopefull be able to check out the glaciers. Time is running out on my clock, so that's all for now!
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Star Struck...No, Not That Kind
I knew I was a bit loopy in my last post....I left out, quite possibly, one of the absolute best parts of the tramp. During the second night, we stayed in Stony Bay which had a quaint little country store (fresh eggs, produce, meat, cereals, and an honesty box). The entire store was no larger than the size of a gas station bathroom, and I was a little too obsessed with it. They even had an old fashioned scale to weigh your purchases. Anyway, these huts didn't have electricity as did those from the night before. As it got dark I headed down to the beach with another girl in hopes of seeing penguins. We only saw a couple seals on the beach, but we did hear some penguins under a neighboring hut. Anyhow, as there was no means of lighting other than fire, we all went to bed by about ten. Around twelve, I woke up (very annoyed) by my bunkmates snoring and talking in her sleep, and since it was so dark, couldn't find my ear plugs. I also suddenly realized that I had to go to the bathroom. The loo is about 50 yards from the hut, but you must go outside. I laid there for a few minutes, deliberating if it was worth it, when I decided I had no choice. Once I managed my way down from the bunk without killing myself and waking everybody else, I stepped outside into the chilly air. I looked in front of me, and then up. I can't say I've ever been so in awe in my life, at least not that I can recall. I was actually a little startled when I saw them....Stars! Bright, brilliant, gleaming stars against a pure black sky. No moon in sight, just hundreds and hundreds of stars. Even when I've gone camping, I've never seen such a clear sky. They shone brighter than those displays you see at a science musueam. So I just stood there, still awestruck for a good few minutes, and have now decided that I just might need to find a guide to the constellations for the Southern Hemisphere.
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